Damned Dapper
Christian Chensvold, who authors Ivy Style, recently contributed his talents to The Rake on the origins, philosophy and specifics of the "go-to-hell" aesthetic. It’s an enlightening pursuit into the nearly defunct WASP culture who’s dress is now a mainstream commodity. Swing by Ivy Style for the read or download the PDF as it appears in The Rake (the photography, featured below, is top drawer).
This particular Ralph Lauren club tie (in wool) is one of the go-to ties in my wardrobe. It looks brilliant with almost anything.
Images via The Rake
“[Bostonians on Martha’s Vineyard] had their own tribal colors. The jackets were mostly navy blazers, and the ties were mostly striped ties or ties with little jacquard emblems on them, but the pants had a go-to-hell air: check and plaids of the loudest possible sort, madras plaids, yellow-on-orange windowpane checks, crazy-quilted plaids, giant houndstooth checks, or else they were a solid airmail red or taxi yellow or some other implausible go-to-hell color. They finished that off with loafers and white crew socks or no socks at all. The pants were their note of Haitian abandon...at the same time the jackets and ties showed they had not forgotten for a moment where the power came from.”
—Tom Wolfe
left a comment on 2/22/2010 at 4:52 PM:
Tiffany—Did you read the accompanying article? It’s key to understand the culture behind the colorful pants. And as far as shoes with no socks…one need not go any further than images from the iconic book Take Ivy produced in the 1960’s on Ivy League campuses.
left a comment on 2/22/2010 at 2:47 PM:
I love the pictures, but why can’t I get over shoes without socks? In fact, in these pictures the top half of the attire is the best. That’s preppy, in my book. But pink pants? Yellow pants? Maybe on a golf course. Green shorts with red shoes? Hmmm. Even thought the cut of the item has that prep look doesn’t mean any color will go with it. It’s just so…loud and in-your- face for something that’s preppy. Again, top half is great, bottom half, not so much. Bottom half looks like golf course attire. But again that’s just me. I’m no fashionista, so you’re welcome to correct me, but I love preppy looks and enjoy reading your blog. Why can’t I get with shoes without socks on guys like this?!
left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 12:01 AM:
im going to have to start making some distinction between me and this other jack that’s posting. great post btw haha
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 7:40 PM:
Anyone who can carry pants like that and look the world in the eye has got balls, in my book.
Makes for a striking collection of images though, which is surely what this post is about, seeing as the article itself can be found elsewhere.
www.openzedoor.blogspot.com
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 6:45 PM:
This may be my favorite Unabashedly Prep post yet! I love everything about this. Thanks F.E.C.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 5:17 PM:
Great photos. Nice tailoring and perfect combos. The green shorts rock.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 5:06 PM:
Jack- youre “reaching”....enjoy the pictures because it seems as though your reading comprehension is lacking.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 3:28 PM:
jack…go get some coffee…obviously didn’t get it this morning…
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 3:26 PM:
Jon—That’s well-articulated. I’m near certain that’s what Fred was trying to convey in this post.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 3:05 PM:
I don’t think anyone was trying to be racist. In fact, (and correct me if I’m wrong) but I think what the author meant by ‘nearly defunct’ is the fact that American society is much more nebulous than it once was. Kids who would be considered ‘waspy’ have styles that run the gamut from preppy to street. I think in fact, the reference was actually an attempt to show how while its roots are in a specific social set/class, the preppy look has reached all facets of American society.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 2:54 PM:
Jack—For starters…this is a style blog about youthful, Ivy League inspired style, with traditionally preppy roots (and it doesn’t take itself too seriously). It’s never claimed to be anything else (look at the photographs above—this is where the focus is).
Secondly, if you are going to share your opinions on this particular matter, it might help if you share what your qualifications are in making such claims (as Christian has done in his writing of said article).
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 2:47 PM:
well written, I think me and The Boss found it from the same place yesterday. By far my favorite style/lifestyle it reminds me so much of home, Palm Beach, Florida.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 2:43 PM:
(Not to mention Congregationalists, Presbyterians and Unitarians.)
The problem with Mr. Chensvold’s attempt at sociology (and the many derivatives of similar on websites like Ivy Style and this) is that it is not studied enough to qualify as such and as a result treads dangerously close to a kind of soft-core racism.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 2:30 PM:
The ‘Stranglehold’ was a perception at worst, and a reality firmly denied when the tradition of freely relinquishing power began in 1797. George Washington demanded the title of President when he was offered the position of King, and when he gladly gave up the Presidency after two terms, he fulfilled the promise of a bunch of Quakers, Anglicans and (yes) Maryland Catholics that the United States would have no permanent rulers.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 1:53 PM:
Nice pics. My favorite was the last one, the guy in his yellow pants.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 11:59 AM:
Jack—When I refer to the WASP culture being nearly defunct, I am not aiming to offend. I am simply referring to the fact that WASPs have largely lost their power stranglehold on American society. And by observing preppy style becoming a mainstream commodity, I’m referring to the likes of Ralph Lauren who capitalized on the fashion of the culture and allowed those who were on the outside looking in to dress as those they were looking in on. He gave the middle class permission to dream.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 11:47 AM:
I love those red drivers and that club tie!
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 11:46 AM:
And yes, others ARE welcome (ref: Castleberry post on Ivy Style), but its usually best to not insult your hosts before you even get in the door.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 11:20 AM:
Nearly defunct? Commodity? Please , when other people wear our clothes it looks just as ridiculous as it would for me to don a headdress. Usually the giant pony is the first dead giveaway.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 11:11 AM:
These pictures made my day.
left a comment on 2/18/2010 at 10:26 AM:
Great article! I read it yesterday, though.
Prepster81 left a comment on 8/13/2010 at 8:53 PM:
These photos are fantastic. What store are the clothes from?