“You never forget your first suit,” David Coggins muses after a couple of beers late one weeknight—which night, exactly, I don’t recall off-hand. But he’s right. You graduated in that suit, landed the job in that suit, got the girl in that suit...you became a man in that suit.
Rugby gets that. This spring marks the introduction to Rugby’s tropical wool, linen/silk/wool blend and cotton gabardine suiting. Though rendered in classic trad hues and patterns, Ralph Lauren fabricated an Italian silhouette. Lauren’s own Italian tailor hand cut the patterns, creating a suppressed waist, natural shoulder, fully canvassed jacket that hugs incredibly well off the rack.
This week, presented by Rugby* and styled by me, features five creatives making it in New York City. They paid a visit to the University Rugby shop and then I tagged along on their commutes, inside their homes and into their favorite greasy spoons to not only show how to look put together in a suit, but how to break it apart. You never forget your first suit—better make it tops.
Ali, under the moniker A Noble Savage, is a bit of a kaleidoscopic creative. His Brooklyn loft is a unique space doubling as a showroom for a constantly re-imagined collection of inspirational objects ranging from fashion to found art, furniture and books. In his linen Glen plaid jacket, he’s fastening horse bits on some antique shoe lasts for his latest conceptual installation. The jeans, a sort of homage to Warhol’s summers spent painting in fields of The Hamptons, are a window into his person, his work and his style.
Vintage Gucci horse bit loafers are the preppy pinnacle of the horse bit variety. Though paint splattered, Ali’s utter disregard for them is precisely the disposition in which they were adopted by the prep-set years ago.
Not everyone can pull off a bow tie simply because the majority of men don’t know how to tie one. I wear them that much more because of that pitiful fact. Tucker Carlson, who’s consistently worn bow ties since childhood, equated it to “a middle finger protruding from your neck.” And that’s exactly the air in which you don one.
If a man could only own one belt for the rest of his life, the brown leather slide belt with engine turn buckle would have to be it. Dress it up, dress it down, it just works.
A signet ring, the quintessential preppy accessory, is one of the only pieces of hand jewelry that a man can pull off outside of his wedding band.
Originally worn at Eton, the club collar garners its name from other men wanting to be seen as part of this exclusive club. Ali subverts the scholarly rope-striped navy suit with a club collar oxford, bright argyle sock and crocodile John Lobb tassel loafers.
*In its sponsorship of this feature, Rugby provided financial compensation, in addition to the product in question, for my photography services and opinions. The entire wardrobe is provided by Rugby save a few instances in which the subjects wore their own pieces.