“You never forget your first suit,” David Coggins muses after a couple of beers late one weeknight—which night, exactly, I don’t recall off-hand. But he’s right. You graduated in that suit, landed the job in that suit, got the girl in that suit...you became a man in that suit.
Rugby gets that. This spring marks the introduction to Rugby’s tropical wool, linen/silk/wool blend and cotton gabardine suiting. Though rendered in classic trad hues and patterns, Ralph Lauren fabricated an Italian silhouette. Lauren’s own Italian tailor hand cut the patterns, creating a suppressed waist, natural shoulder, fully canvassed jacket that hugs incredibly well off the rack.
This week, presented by Rugby* and styled by me, features five creatives making it in New York City. They paid a visit to the University Rugby shop and then I tagged along on their commutes, inside their homes and into their favorite greasy spoons to not only show how to look put together in a suit, but how to break it apart. You never forget your first suit—better make it tops.
There is something physically nostalgic about a book—a book in whose pages you can actually flip beneath the pad of your thumb. There is even something more nostalgic about a handmade book. Brian thinks so too. He makes them painstakingly by hand—imperfections and all—in small runs for clients looking for something unique. On a sun drenched afternoon, in his gray tropical wool suit, he’s putting in some time at one of his favorite local bookstores.
Every man’s first suit should be gray, assuming you already have a navy blazer and gray tropical trousers. It will take you to weddings, funerals and if you go with a dark charcoal, it will even take you to a black tie affair. This is Brian's first suit.
Opt for a cuff (1 3/4”) on your gray wool trousers to the maintain their versatility for everyday wear in and out of the suit.
Blue and white shirts, any combination like the striped button down sport shirt here, are the work horses of any man’s wardrobe. They go anywhere with everything and a man can never have too many.
Break out the tropical wool trousers and a plaid sport shirt for an everyday semi-casual go-to staple.
Is there a better way to ride a bike than in a tweedy plaid sport jacket? Not in Williamsburg. Brian’s meetings often take him across the Brooklyn Bridge on windy spring days. His linen/silk jacket breathes while keeping him warm enough while on his bike.
When spring rolls around, I’m an advocate of the pink oxford cloth button down with tweedy heritage jackets like this one in a linen/silk blend. Pink not only does favors for your face after a long night but provides a softer counterpoint to the masculine hearty fabric. A cotton bandana nonchalantly stuffed into your jacket makes for a functional pocket square that says you don’t take yourself too seriously.
Sometimes-always-never, the rule of thumb in buttoning your jacket from top to bottom, applies to your vest as well.
*In its sponsorship of this feature, Rugby provided financial compensation, in addition to the product in question, for my photography services and opinions. The entire wardrobe is provided by Rugby save a few instances in which the subjects wore their own pieces.