Unabashedly Prep

  • Taylor Stitch

    Style  

    Bespoke shirting will run you upwards of $200 and is often accompanied by order minimums. It fits like a glove and can last you a lifetime but the initial cash outlay can be daunting. Not to worry. As men have become more keen about buttoning up in better fitting shirts, it has given birth to the made-to-measure American start ups looking to cater to them.

    Photographed in New York, NY

    I recently placed an order* with online men’s outfitter Taylor Stitch. With an array of fabrics ($115-$400) to choose from (step one), I instinctively reached for the university stripe oxford cloth. The devil is in the details—and so is your style. Collar, cuffs, placket, pocket, monogram...these details can make or break a shirt (step two). Because of the custom nature of the process, it is very important that you know exactly what you want before working with Taylor Stitch. They offer three different ways to order a shirt. Though you can copy the measurements of your favorite shirt or order based on standard measurements, opt for made-to-measure (step three). Visit your tailor and have him take your measurements. Trust me, it’s easier this way. Several weeks later my made-to-measure oxford arrived and fits as if it was, well, tailor stitched.

    *University stripe oxford cloth button down with locker loop, third collar button and monogram ($125). An eighth button is also employed to ensure a tucked in shirt.

    May 10, 2010 | Permalink (25) View/Leave Comments

    bdnb left a comment on 5/16/2010 at 1:56 AM:

    ambassadors of fly.


    Jassy left a comment on 5/12/2010 at 11:27 PM:

    Hot! I love a man with a good torso. Oh, yeah, and the the outfit is great too! ;)


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 5/12/2010 at 1:01 PM:

    @Johnny5—I have several friends that are good photographers in their own right.


    Johnny 5 left a comment on 5/12/2010 at 12:57 PM:

    Love this shirt and this image! I always wonder who shoots the images of you!


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 5/12/2010 at 11:18 AM:

    @robdarko—Being an oxford cloth weave, the collar is indeed sewn.


    robdarko left a comment on 5/12/2010 at 10:56 AM:

    Excellent!  Is the collar sewn or fused?

    Please say sewn, please say sewn, please say sewn…


    Lorenz left a comment on 5/12/2010 at 3:16 AM:

    looks cool, love the photo as well! I just got a mtm shirt from biased cut, they are great as well and very affordable :)


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 5/11/2010 at 2:13 PM:

    @Nicholas—The eighth button serves to keep the front of the shirt tucked in neatly despite movement.

    @Yash D.—The jeans are selvedge denim by Rugby.


    Nicholas left a comment on 5/11/2010 at 1:54 PM:

    What’s the significance of the 8th button?


    Yash D. left a comment on 5/11/2010 at 1:47 PM:

    Does anyone know what company those jeans are? They look pretty legit


    theos left a comment on 5/11/2010 at 5:45 AM:

    the jeans r dope!


    Pat F left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 9:17 PM:

    Digging the shirt but more importantly the jeans.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 7:38 PM:

    @Richard Ross—Taylor Stitch does not make suits but they can solve your short sleeve conundrums.


    Richard Ross left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 4:16 PM:

    Does Taylor Stitch have a suit division?


    kat left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 4:13 PM:

    That shirt is SWEET. And the shot of you is genius.


    Richard Ross left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 4:13 PM:

    This looks great! I have been looking for a fairly affordable, good quality custom shirt for a while now. Too long have I had sleeves unbelievably too short. It is definitely time for that to change.


    Connetiquette left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 3:23 PM:

    Such a celebrity


    Michael M. left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 3:15 PM:

    Thanks for the wonderful write up Fred! Glad we could get you kitted out. Keep an eye out for the ready to wear collection dropping oh so soon. Not to mention a little redesign here and there..;


    georgie left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 3:09 PM:

    this picture is great. the tie is nice too.


    Christian Bourasseau left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 2:53 PM:

    and the tie is fabulous!


    Christian Bourasseau left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 2:52 PM:

    everything’s so perfect here. I love the oxford shirt, the jeans and the wristbands. I specially like the Kiel James Patrick one!


    L.A.S left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 2:36 PM:

    F.E. Castleberry, superstar.


    eec left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 12:41 PM:

    love the kjp bracelet as an accessory too!


    Chris M left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 12:37 PM:

    Nice tie as well.


    The Boss left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 12:16 PM:

    I’d be interested to see a fit comparison with an off-the-shelf button down shirt. Perhaps something to consider at a later date.


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  • Contax 645

    Dress Code  

    Photographed in Savannah, GA

    May 7, 2010 | Permalink (25) View/Leave Comments

    Bill Smith left a comment on 6/10/2010 at 2:20 PM:

    Somehow someone took a picture of my subconscious what my future wife might might look like…and packing a Contax 645 as well.


    Samuel U left a comment on 5/18/2010 at 5:39 PM:

    A girl after my own heart. SPERRY!!!


    Zach left a comment on 5/18/2010 at 4:53 PM:

    Noteworthy: Dynamite Gams.


    Astrild left a comment on 5/11/2010 at 3:56 PM:

    Lovely. And that bucket bag looks familiar…


    DJ left a comment on 5/11/2010 at 1:32 PM:

    Thank you transporting me back 30 years to my days at Michigan State, where all the lovely sorority ladies looked exactly like this!


    RWF left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 7:40 PM:

    I own a pair of docksiders just like that and I like them, but I would have never paired them with pants or a blazer of that colour. I like everything knees up.

    pleasurablerevelation.blogpspot.com


    Laguna Beach Trad left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 8:58 AM:

    Lovely! She looks really cute in her Lacoste polo dress (it shows off her figure) and that colour is fantastic on her. Well done!

    All these recent photos of youngsters in Savannah make me think that town is some sort of prep haven or something.

    http://admiralcod.blogspot.com/


    paige left a comment on 5/8/2010 at 2:33 PM:

    This is going to be me 10 years from now. I totally want that dress, and shoes…
    www.waitingtobewritten.blogspot.com


    John left a comment on 5/8/2010 at 11:13 AM:

    I want to marry her


    mark Sinclair left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 7:47 PM:

    She is so beautiful! Wow!!


    bunny left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 7:47 PM:

    cute. casual but neat. i love the worn in bag. it’s handsome.


    John left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 7:06 PM:

    Perfect…and a film shooter besides!


    Ryan left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 5:55 PM:

    Brilliant. So simple and perfect.


    johann v. caffenberg left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 5:16 PM:

    love it…simple, cute, clean


    Christian Bourasseau left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 4:23 PM:

    perfect!


    CLG23 left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 3:42 PM:

    Simple…
    too bad its the simple styles that get overlooked..and great addition with the navy sperry’s


    Larry Reeves left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 3:01 PM:

    I love it!!


    CapitolA left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 1:29 PM:

    All I can say is DAMN!
    So glad I’ve started reading this site.


    Andy left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 1:17 PM:

    Love it…  Those shoes are great.  I need to invest in some loud Sperrys or Cole Haans, (the men’s versions, of course,) this summer.


    EdoubleM.blogspot.com left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 12:54 PM:

    Everything is perfect! Her dress, the Sperrys and the Ray-Ban aviators.


    robdarko left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 12:48 PM:

    Is this the gorgeous redhead with the great toothy smile?  She is a class act.

    Note the absence of jewelry.  Perfection.


    Straw Boater left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 12:09 PM:

    Stunning.


    Astrild left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 11:20 AM:

    Love the dress!


    BunnyBelle left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 11:14 AM:

    Polo dress is clearly a wardrobe staple. Though I like to wear mine with my very worn-in pair of gold Jack Rogers—my sandals of choice all summer long! (Or the majority of the year considering I live in South Beach)


    CapitolA left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 10:14 AM:

    DAMN!


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  • The Making of a Schott Peacoat

    Miscellany  

    Jason Schott is no stranger to the factory. He grew up here. We pass by a rack of vintage leather Perfectos he has been meticulously reacquiring on eBay. It’s part of a concerted effort to piece together the history of a company so steeped in it. I’m sitting in his office and “3/4 Unabashedly Prep” is scribbled on the dry erase board. His cousin’s office is next door, another relative’s behind the glass in the hall way and several more occupied by third and fourth generation progeny.

    The sun is out this morning in Elizabeth, NJ but everyone has their heads down on the Schott Bros. Inc factory floor cutting, marking, sewing. The building is from another era—its brick and mortar from a time when things were built to last centuries not decades. Schott’s peacoats are still made to the standards of that bygone era. After living in my peacoat last winter, they invited me out to witness firsthand exactly what goes into the making of this American classic.

    The wool is piece cut by hand using various paper patterns.

    Photographed in Elizabeth, NJ

    Unlike leather, Melton wool is cut in stacks and then sent down the line bound

    Many of the Schott family's employees have been with them for over 15 years

    Authentic New Jersey nails—a tell-tale "Made in the USA" sign

    The US Navy Pea Coat was adopted during the early 20th Century, from Britain’s Royal Navy Reefer Jacket. The Royal Navies first regulations for uniforms for other ranks were issued in 1857, a century after the regulations for officers and this garment was originally used by Midshipmen (Reefers). These crewmen had to climb the rigging and furl and unfurl, or ‘reef’, the sails of the sailing ships of the era. The jacket was short, to allow ease of movement through the rigging. It had a double-breasted front, which displaced the buttons to each side. This helped reduce the chance of them getting caught on ropes, as the wearer maneuvered the sails. The pockets were often close to vertical, and over the flanks, rather than horizontal and at wrist level. It was made of a very heavy wool, in dark Navy blue, with a nap on the face side.

    *The success of the style is proved by its singularly universal appearance throughout the Navies of Europe. This may account for the US Navies nomenclature as an Anglicization of the Dutch ‘Pijekkat, being a jacket made of ‘Pij’ (a coarse wool) cloth. Conversely, it may be from the shortening of the Belgium Navies term ‘Pilot’s Jacket’ to P. Jacket, then being misspelled, adapted to Pea Coat. The term ‘Pea Jacket’ is reputed to first appear in the Oxford English Dictionary between 1717 and 1723. ‘Pea Coat’ does not appear for another century.

    May 6, 2010 | Permalink (4) View/Leave Comments

    Richard Ross left a comment on 5/7/2010 at 12:44 PM:

    This is a wonderful piece. A great depiction of how personal the process is.


    Connetiquette left a comment on 5/6/2010 at 8:40 PM:

    These are some great shots


    Jay left a comment on 5/6/2010 at 5:43 PM:

    I love my Pea coat.


    John left a comment on 5/6/2010 at 10:20 AM:

    NJ Pride


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  • Cuff ‘Em

    Style | Dress Code  

    I like the shorter short. I have been preaching that gospel to men since last summer. Ronen Jehezkel turned me on to it. His suits made me believe it could work again—and it does (if you have the legs). The shorter inseam creates the appearance of height while getting your thighs a little sun. Cropping your beloved shorts to new heights might seem, well, permanent—but there is a sans scissors approach to ease you into it. I’ve been cuffing my chino shorts this spring to achieve the same effect. Women, too, are following suit. Roll them to the desired length (I’ve rolled mine twice to a 6” inseam) and leave them there for the rest of the summer.

    Photographed in Savannah, GA

    May 5, 2010 | Permalink (34) View/Leave Comments

    jw left a comment on 8/11/2011 at 10:27 PM:

    Vineyard Vines makes a great pair of shorter shorts, 7” inseam—VV Dock Shorts. Not cheap though, and not easy to find in stores. J. Crew is your other option, they have 7” and 5” if you really want to go all out.


    Ben Stein left a comment on 7/29/2011 at 2:12 PM:

    Not only is this look classic in the summer, but as a fraternity gentleman in the South, this look is classic year round.  The shorter the shorts, the more freedom you have to mix colors and be cooler; in style and comfort.


    Arnold left a comment on 6/19/2011 at 4:35 PM:

    Starting to wear these shorts this summer with RL big pony polo’s! sometimes it’s a little out of line cuz nobody’s wears them here like that. but anyway verry comfy. X


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 5/28/2010 at 1:57 PM:

    @Jed—Get to a Ralph Lauren store instead of Dillard’s. Also, you are more than likely going to have to get them tailored my friend…we’re ahead of the curve here (by drawing inspiration from the past), not buying mainstream.

    Rugby is also usually up to good things in the shorts department as well.


    Jed left a comment on 5/28/2010 at 1:48 PM:

    I’m having a hard time finding good khaki shorts that are a 6-7 inch inseam. The only ones R.L. makes are pleated and I prefer flat front. Any suggestions? Thanks all!


    M.D. Cooley left a comment on 5/12/2010 at 6:00 AM:

    I have been cuffing my shorts since last summer, and it is definitly the way to go. However if you have a blazer on I feel the shorts need to be a little longer. This is my firs post this blog is wonderful!

    http://westcapeprep.blogspot.com/


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 5/10/2010 at 9:26 AM:

    @Ryan—It’s about proportion.  Aim for one whole hand-width above your knee.


    Astrild left a comment on 5/6/2010 at 11:11 PM:

    I’m in favor of above-the-knee shorts for fellas. I see a lot of men wearing long,baggy shorts (usually with baggy T-shirts as well) and to me, the shorter inseam does indeed look more polished.


    ryan left a comment on 5/6/2010 at 9:43 PM:

    I’ve wondered of this look works for a man that is 6’5” tall - long legs.  Thoughts?


    Rhett left a comment on 5/6/2010 at 1:21 PM:

    Oh thanks @F.E. Castleberry ! I guess I expected them to unroll or something, but it seems to work fine…


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 5/6/2010 at 12:25 PM:

    @Rhett—Simply fold them up once at the hem line and then fold again.  It requires no sewing.


    Rhett left a comment on 5/6/2010 at 12:14 PM:

    How did you cuff them?
    How should I go about doing this?


    Guillaume left a comment on 5/6/2010 at 4:40 AM:

    Inspiration for me !

    http://sonsofcapitalism.blogspot.com/


    WhitneyProper left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 11:49 PM:

    I seriously heart boys in short shorts. But that’s a southern style. It’s southern preppy, but we love it down here. You keep on rockin’ the cuffs!!


    bunny left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 9:23 PM:

    i’ve been thinking about trying some shorts from murray’s toggery…this might be the summer.


    CaptiolA left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 6:35 PM:

    Not sure how I feel about the cuff, but the length is barely up for debate. I got my first pair of 6” shorts from Rugby earlier this spring (in Phx we start wearing shorts in February). It only took my wife seeing them on me once, and all of sudden she was replacing all my knee length shorts with shorter ones. There is no question they make me look taller, slimmer, and more athletic (I’m 6’ 180# with muscular legs), and I definitely feel more confident and more polished in shorter inseams.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 5:35 PM:

    @John—I am 5’11” and typically wear a 30” inseam on my pants.  Being a little on the shorter side makes an even stronger argument to spring for a shorter inseam (and no socks). It will lengthen out your legs and balance your width.


    BunnyBelle left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 5:00 PM:

    Two words: Straight Hot!


    John left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 4:14 PM:

    How tall are you by the way Castleberry?  What length of pants do you wear.  I am a 34 x 30, and only 5’8”, not sure if it will work.  Short and rotund, nothing really works…. :-(


    Andrew1128 left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 2:55 PM:

    I’m definitely all about shorter shorts. Why are some dudes so terrified of showing anything above their knee? This will make you look taller, leaner, more polished and mature.


    Chris left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 2:54 PM:

    With leg muscles like these u can wear em short :D


    S.N. Carpeaux left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 2:42 PM:

    I’m on board with the cuff. As stated, it’s a good way to try another inseam length sans committment.
    V-I got a great boyfriend style pair from J. Crew that look great cuffed. A looser fit,  but not baggy.


    B. Edwards left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 2:39 PM:

    I say cuff ‘em as a 6.2 skinny guy shorts are always tricky, either too short or horribly too long. Cuffing them controls the length. Esp. if over 1/2 your body length is leg.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 1:46 PM:

    @MJL—My shorts are 10” sans cuffed.


    mjl left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 1:42 PM:

    how long are the shorts to begin with?


    The Boss left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 1:17 PM:

    Fred—I’ve got to give Five Guys a shot (man, that sounds, umm, gay). I only hear good things.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 10:10 AM:

    @The Boss—My cuffs stay rolled throughout the day. As as far as what’s in the cup, I was washing down my Five Guys fries with lemonade.


    rhonda left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 9:45 AM:

    I am really undecided on this one.  You sold me on shorter inseams, but I’m not sure about the cuffs.  Being 5’ tall, I cuff most of my shorts.  They just come too long in the store.  For men though… I’m just not sure.


    The Boss left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 9:20 AM:

    It looks good to me. My only concern with this approach would be keeping the cuffs rolled without having them come undone throughout the day. I’ll have to give this a test run. 

    PS—What’s in the cup?


    Laguna Beach Trad left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 9:12 AM:

    Cuffs (on shorts) are only appropriate if they are 2” and up. Anything else, why bother?


    Christian Bourasseau left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 9:08 AM:

    Perfect! This is ivy-Style!


    RThompson left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 8:15 AM:

    V - We’ve got the perfect style and fit at Rugby right now, and the colors are amazingg.. I settled on green to wear back with seersucker.


    V left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 7:16 AM:

    As a woman, I think this might be harder to pull off, just because our shorts are made to be more form-fitting. Any good suggestions to remedy this (brands, styles)?


    S.M. Shewan left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 7:06 AM:

    I started wearing my shorts that way last summer when I got my thighs tattooed and need to have as little material rubbing against them as possible. I liked it so much I’ve done it ever since.


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  • Ground Chuck

    Dress Code  

    Photographed in Dallas, TX

    Noteworthy: beat-to-hell Chucks. Previously featured on Rugby's blog, The Newsroom.

    May 4, 2010 | Permalink (15) View/Leave Comments

    bunny left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 9:21 PM:

    love the pink & green of course. and the lil added panache of the pocket square.


    Astrild left a comment on 5/5/2010 at 2:29 AM:

    He looks great. I bet those Chucks are comfy as hell.


    Laguna Beach Trad left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 7:01 PM:

    I avoid gingham (‘gungham’), I hate fast food, and the shorts are a tad too long, but I still think this is a goodc look.


    Christian Bourasseau left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 4:04 PM:

    I mean greener.


    rhonda left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 11:23 AM:

    IN LOVE with this look and the chucks make the whole thing.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 10:57 AM:

    @Christian—The gingham is green, not turquoise.


    Christian Bourasseau left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 10:47 AM:

    The colors are pefect. I would chosen a green gingham instead of torquoise, but that’s just me. The colors are perfect.


    Guillaume left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 10:14 AM:

    Nice/Clean/Fresh
    I would prefer a pair of navy authentic vans than good old chuck.But his attitude it’s the better accesoire.


    http://sonsofcapitalism.blogspot.com/


    Cam left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 9:26 AM:

    Liking everything, it screams “the summer weekend look”. I would probably have gone and inch or two shorter on the bottom but to each his own!


    Robdarko left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 9:25 AM:

    The art of nonchalance.  I’m a fan of gingham on any scale or color (except red).

    The well worn Chucks are a perfect touch.  Well done!


    mjl left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 9:10 AM:

    this looks entirely too comfortable, if there is such a thing.  i mean seriously, comfort clothes and comfort food???  awesome.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 9:09 AM:

    @The Boss—Are you kidding??? :)  He told me these Chucks have been all over the country with him…definitely a great traveling companion. The icing on the cake.


    The Boss left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 9:03 AM:

    I can stand behind this look, sans the Goodwill chucks. What’s really noteworthy is the layered bracelets.


    Kristi left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 8:59 AM:

    Oh very nice.  Lovely mix.


    Robin left a comment on 5/4/2010 at 8:48 AM:

    Very creative pose!


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