• Fall/Winter ‘11 Essentials

    Top Drawer | Style | Prep Essentials  

    I like New York. In the fall, I love New York. The perfect tweed jacket, wool scarves, that beloved pair of faded jeans, shaggy shetland sweaters, and the classic peacoat migrate out of the tiny closets of New Yorkers down to the streets of Manhattan. It’s inspired. This week, Men of Habit will show you how to fold these fall essentials into your look with relative ease. Chris Callis and I worked with Phineas Cole, Billy Reid, J. Press, Gant Rugger, Schott, Allen Edmonds, and others to put together five looks that hopefully inspire you well into the new year.

    Photographed in New York, NY

    Photographs: F.E. Castleberry
    Styling: Chris Callis, F.E. Castleberry
    Models: Kahari, Tim, Akin, Iso, and Laurence

    Oct 10, 2011 | Permalink (29) View/Leave Comments

    Bunny left a comment on 3/24/2014 at 12:00 PM:

    @FEC Great shoot! Just curious if you digitally edit in Adobe LR? Big Fan Sir!


    Evans left a comment on 11/11/2011 at 9:59 AM:

    Love the black watch peacoat ... where can I get my hands on one?


    Docks left a comment on 10/20/2011 at 3:15 PM:

    Gorgeous patch pockets on the jacket in the sixth picture ... especially with the lavender chinos. Heavenly.


    rob left a comment on 10/18/2011 at 9:20 PM:

    i second the request for who makes the lavendar chinos. love them


    AM left a comment on 10/17/2011 at 3:09 PM:

    Who makes the lavender pants and where can I get a pair?


    DJY left a comment on 10/13/2011 at 8:24 PM:

    Does anyone know who makes that turtleneck?


    Jeff left a comment on 10/13/2011 at 3:32 PM:

    @Big Jon search for sebago penny loafers on ebay and single it out from low to high. I found a pair for 20.00 free shipping new and I just recently looked yesterday and there are still deals out there on ebay like that. Hope that helps some.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 10/13/2011 at 12:17 PM:

    @Ryan—The goose down vest is by Penfield and can be purchased on their website currently.


    Ryan left a comment on 10/13/2011 at 11:32 AM:

    Can someone tell me what brand that down vest is and where I can get one…Very classy!


    Tara left a comment on 10/12/2011 at 6:02 PM:

    Wonderful shots and styling indeed. I love that greenish/blueish blazer it looks like cashmere or wool - paired with the purpleish pants. I would love to get that as a gift for my husband but which store is it from. My guess is J. Press? Beautiful material!


    KPC left a comment on 10/12/2011 at 4:40 PM:

    Where is the blue/red/green scarf from?


    Eric left a comment on 10/11/2011 at 11:06 PM:

    Great work FEC! May I ask who makes the black watch peacoat? Thanks!


    J left a comment on 10/11/2011 at 5:42 PM:

    @Chens - Not necessarily


    Chens left a comment on 10/11/2011 at 12:31 PM:

    Just to play devil’s advocate, the soles look new when I zoom on the photo.

    I’ve seen a legit patina on a pair of Boyer’s shoes, but they were 25 years old.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 10/11/2011 at 11:08 AM:

    @Chens—Ah of course, let me clarify.  Chris and I pulled the shoes from our own wardrobes.


    Chens left a comment on 10/11/2011 at 9:11 AM:

    The shoes wouldn’t have a patina if they’re new, since a patina by definition is something acquired through aging.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 10/11/2011 at 12:03 AM:

    Big Jon—The penny loafers are Allen Edmonds.  Edmonds are a great option if you aren’t willing to spend the cash for Aldens.  Also, you can buy used on eBay.

    @Jon—The denim is by Stone Island.


    Every Man's Closet left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 11:57 PM:

    Love the first look with the striped sweater and plaid jacket. Hot!


    Big Jon left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 11:08 PM:

    I’m definately inspired. My favorite is the one with the navy and burgendy sweater. Is that gentleman wearying penny loafers and if so what brand are they? I’m trying to find a pair that won’t break the bank.


    Jon left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 11:06 PM:

    Who makes the jeans in the first photo?


    J left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 8:32 PM:

    All around great looks with one exception…

    The checked jacket over striped sweater isn’t working for me… I guess you have to know the rules to break them, but it still seems a bit garish


    maria left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 7:27 PM:

    Can you do one for the ladies?

    http://threadtheneedleblog.blogspot.com/


    Grace left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 6:57 PM:

    Love the look of tweed and puffer vests in the fall! This post makes for wonderful inspiration!


    OldGeorgetowner left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 6:31 PM:

    I’m loving the black watch coat.  Actually, all of these looks are great.  The striped sweater looks very comfortable.  The only ‘bump’ for me, personally, is that I wouldn’t wear the purple-ish pants in the top photo. Everything else is a win-win for sure.


    Scott left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 6:03 PM:

    Wonderful.  Welcome back Fall, I’ve missed you.  Great work Fred!  Cheers, -Scott


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 5:22 PM:

    @AEV—Those saddles are Allen Edmonds, yes.  They are a beautiful shoe…nice patina to them.


    AEV left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 5:17 PM:

    Those saddle shoes in the first pick are amazing. Allen Edmonds? Really nice pic Fred…


    tim left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 3:59 PM:

    I love that down vest over tweed jacket look!!

    http://www.thesartorialist.com/photos/on-the-street-dosan-park-seoul/

    great styling and snaps F.E.


    Caroline Fontenot left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 12:51 PM:

    Da-yum! I always look forward to Fall on UP. That last look…perfection.


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  • A Humorous Guide to Heraldry!

    Music & Books  

    Did you know a cockatrice is a mythical creature with a rooster’s head and a dragon’s body? Or that the 14th century ushered in the heater shield? Do you even know what a heater shield is? Right, neither did I. Jack Carlson’s A Humorous Guide to Heraldry! explains everything you need to know and everything you didn’t know you wanted to know about heraldry. This guide “for little tykes and old folks alike” is not only a fun read, but notably thorough. Partitions, tinctures, wreaths, helmets, blazon, and much more are whimsically illustrated by hand. I don’t know what’s more impressive, that Carlson managed to turn a potentially vapid subject matter into an entertaining read or that he illustrated and wrote this book at the ripe age of 14. Either way, that heraldic tie in your closet just became a little more interesting.

    Oct 7, 2011 | Permalink (5) View/Leave Comments

    garydirteen left a comment on 5/9/2012 at 5:23 PM:

    hello dennis this is there contact address , they have 30% disc at the moment , tell them   gary dirteen told you to ring


    AdeCdeP left a comment on 10/29/2011 at 9:20 PM:

    Shouldn’t it actually be “Everything one needs to know about Heraldry, presented in a humorous fashion”? Prince Charles does speak in the third person, after all!


    Abigail S left a comment on 10/16/2011 at 5:37 PM:

    I’ll definitely have to check out a copy of this—Jack was the year above me at BB&N


    txsailorboy left a comment on 10/12/2011 at 7:58 PM:

    Good show….jolly good show…....


    Tad Allagash left a comment on 10/10/2011 at 10:33 PM:

    Interesting post.  Heraldry is actually a rich subject as most heraldry comes from a time when not many people could read - so these seals/crests/banners/flags convey a lot of information if one knows how to read or interpret them properly. Though fashion designers ripping off (or drawing inspiration from, depending on your POV) historical motifs is a post for another day.


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  • Windbreaker

    Dress Code  

    Photographed in New York, NY

    Noteworthy: I'm drawn to how this young lady lays a navy foundation but mixes different (yet familiar) preppy pieces. The Lacoste windbreakers from the 80s, nautical stripes, and navy blazers are all paid tribute in an effortless manner. The windbreaker pairing with the double pleated (and cuffed) navy wool shorts is quintessential American sportswear.

    Oct 6, 2011 | Permalink (4) View/Leave Comments

    Greer Chapman left a comment on 10/23/2011 at 8:35 PM:

    soo cute! love this outfit!
    cleannaturalist.tumblr.com


    OldGeorgetowner left a comment on 10/8/2011 at 9:16 AM:

    ...I think she looks pretty in those shorts/outfit.  Some ladies can look, well, frumpty dumpty in pleats, not this model, she looks confident and put together; really nice.


    OldGeorgetowner left a comment on 10/8/2011 at 9:12 AM:

    At first glance one might mistake that for a vintage men’s Members Only jacket, but having read your caption, it *is* understood that it *is* Lacoste, phew.


    fluffy left a comment on 10/7/2011 at 6:31 PM:

    Great mix, a nice figure is a great beginning for any day!
    beautynaturalmnet.blogpsot.com


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  • Rugby Haberdashery Shop

    Top Drawer | Style | Store Profiles  

    On a chilly Tuesday night in the West Village, the dark woods, warm glow, and beat-to-hell Oriental rugs of 390 Bleecker Street are a welcome invitation. Dennis and Lynton greet Coggins, Mordechai, Foxley, Darrell, Brian, and me from inside the diminutive shop. You would never guess the rectangular West Village space was vacant one month ago. From the creaky wooden planked floor to the fireplace stuffed with 19th century hard bound books, Rugby’s haberdashery shop feels anything but new. In fact, all it’s missing is a coat of dust.

    The shop typically closes at 7pm but the boys keep it open for us so we can check out Rugby’s custom shirting program. With a bin of Brooklyn Lager on ice, Wilco in the air, and vintage English pieces waiting to be discovered, the experience feels similar to 99 University Place but intimate...grown up. Vintage Barbour Internationals hang overhead (yes, they are for sale), rare John Lobb velvet Prince Albert slippers are kept safe in a vault down stairs (no, these are not for sale), and suiting made in Italy lines the walls. My dad could shop here—my dad would shop here.

    Photographed in New York, NY

    Rugby takes the oxford silhouette you already love and renders your made-to-order shirt in cloth from the world’s finest mills. You handpick the elements, from seven classic fabrics, four collars, two cuffs, chest pocket, and customized monogram, and Rugby puts it together according to your exact specifications and measurements. After a back and forth with Lynton, I opt for the blue and white university striped oxford with white tab collar, barrel cuff, chest pocket, and my monogram. The other gentlemen follow suit with an array of chambray, pink oxford, and striped broadcloth selections.

    Rugby’s dress shirts are manufactured by the revered New England Shirt Company in Fall River, Massachusetts. The craftsmanship and quality pay homage to New England tradition—the soft shoulder sack suit, boat shoes, summers in Newport, and winters in Vermont. The American outfit has been making clothing of incredible quality for the last 75 years. Each shirt is hand made by skilled, dedicated craftsmen using vintage sewing machines to create classic staples you’ll wear for years to come.

    Oct 5, 2011 | Permalink (20) View/Leave Comments

    arne left a comment on 11/10/2011 at 3:12 PM:

    why don’t we have store’s like this in holland?


    Laguna Beach Fogey left a comment on 10/9/2011 at 7:16 PM:

    It’s funny how Americans generally are into any shirt collar BUT spread/cutaway collar. I wonder why this is…? Odd.

    http://admiralcod.blogspot.com/


    Docks left a comment on 10/8/2011 at 3:10 AM:

    The essence of the matter is that you’re getting made-to-measure pieces with customization. For many however, that’s satisfactory, especially given the heritage and quality bestowed via the manufacturer.

    The Bleecker store is phenomenal, Fred. I was waiting to see this entry. Talked with Lynton and Lawrence one night, they said you stop by on occasion.


    Richard Ross left a comment on 10/7/2011 at 10:04 AM:

    I’ve looked at this like ten times. This is such a great piece. The fireplace full of books is absolutely brilliant.


    Preposity left a comment on 10/7/2011 at 7:22 AM:

    I visited the Bleecker St store when I was in NYC recently, despite being from London, England, it’s so cosy and intimate. Now we have our own store here in London. The visual merchandising in the Rugby stores is just top notch, unequaled. I’m intrigued by the custom shirting, wonder if it’s available in the UK?
    Great photos Fred, I can tell you had a great time shooting there, since you’ve published so many great images in this post.


    Scott left a comment on 10/6/2011 at 7:21 PM:

    Wonderful.  I’d like to move in here tout de suite….


    emjkmj left a comment on 10/6/2011 at 6:18 PM:

    I have toured the New England Shirt Company and I think their products are worth the $150 retail, at that price NESC has gross revenue of about $50, that is including fabric.  When you pay union wages like they do and each order is a one off… this work isn’t very profitable.  If you compare NESC, Gitman or another high quality US manufacturer the retail price is usually in that same ball park (unless you have a real high grade fabric).  I guess what gets lost in translation here is it is more of a limited made-to-measure vs. a real custom shirt program.  But if your shopping at Rugby, you are buying into that particular aesthetic or in this case a particular fit.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 10/6/2011 at 4:53 PM:

    @bucephalus—You choose your neck size and then you choose your sleeve length.  The waist and chest will be the same fit as Rugby’s University oxford.


    bucephalus left a comment on 10/6/2011 at 4:48 PM:

    I’m confused.  Can you or can you not customise basic measurements like neck, chest, yoke, etc. ?


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 10/6/2011 at 3:42 PM:

    @AEV—The value Rugby is bringing to their custom shirting program is in the “limited selections” and “fit measurements.”  They are using their existing oxford silhouette which fits most men (who are in shape) well.

    I have gone through the J.Hilburn bespoke shirting process twice.  For the average man, it is very easy to get lost in the myriad of decisions required to create a shirt…and I’m not even talking about fabric selection at this point.  The value here is Rugby has made the big decisions (in line with their point of view and brand) and they allow their guys to make the smaller decisions (cuffs, collars, one of seven fabrics, etc).  More is not necessarily better.  A man has to really know himself in order to go completely bespoke successfully (and few do).  Rugby has made a tight edit in order to make the custom shirting process as familiar as possible to those in favor of their point of view.

    I should also add that the slight price premium is due to the fact that these shirts are made in New England, not Asia.

    @Dan—Rugby’s target market isn’t just 18-25 years olds anymore.


    Dan left a comment on 10/6/2011 at 9:51 AM:

    Rugby has just opened in London, great shop with prices to match. Who in the target age group of 18 to 25 can afford this stuff ?


    trm left a comment on 10/6/2011 at 8:14 AM:

    great post Fred!! beautiful pix


    BCB left a comment on 10/6/2011 at 1:23 AM:

    Love the look of the shop. Wish we had this kinda class in Texas, but that’s just also a uniquely northeast look. Oh how I miss my days in the UK… Also, @FEC, why are prince albert slippers all so pricey? I’ve never seen a single pair below two hundred. I get you’re paying for quality and I’m not complaining, I just wonder why they often outprice fine leather shoes or cost a similar amount.


    cam left a comment on 10/5/2011 at 11:48 PM:

    i need to move to NYC


    Laguna Beach Fogey left a comment on 10/5/2011 at 10:26 PM:

    This is ace! Thanks FEC.


    Omni left a comment on 10/5/2011 at 9:52 PM:

    ATH, I felt the same way when I tried one on a few months ago…I wound up purchasing one from Jcrew in brown herringbone instead.

    Great work on this one Fred, loving everything in these pics but can’t justify spending the coin on them even being a part time RL employee.


    ATH left a comment on 10/5/2011 at 8:57 PM:

    I love the Rugby Black/White herringbone jacket!  I tried it on and, quite unfortunately, the fit was very odd.  Didn’t fit well at all.  Any suggestions on inexpensive herringbone jackets?
    -ATH (exceedinglypreppy.blogspot.com)


    Rhon left a comment on 10/5/2011 at 8:34 PM:

    Some damn good photos man.  Love the style.


    DBCC left a comment on 10/5/2011 at 4:31 PM:

    Great effort, Freddy.  I’ll be at Rugby’s Boston location this weekend.  Thank you.


    Carlos Ultreras left a comment on 10/5/2011 at 4:11 PM:

    Beautifully written. I wanted to trade this coffee for a scotch as I was reading this. Awesome photo’s as well. Can’t wait to see the shirt in your site.


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  • Piracy

    Miscellany  

    Oct 4, 2011 | Permalink (1) View/Leave Comments

    Kionon left a comment on 10/6/2011 at 6:15 PM:

    Apple is the Navy now. Steve Jobs is like the pirate who got a letter of marque and went legit. Which is great for us. As a blogger, everything in my toolkit is an Apple product, except for my Canon.


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