• Aprés-Ski on the Street

    Style | Dress Code  

    As foul weather settles in, I've noticed après-ski wear making its way, en masse, onto the streets of more than just mountain villages this winter. But this is not a new phenomenon. Preppies have long donned their sportswear after the fact of actually playing said sport. While certainly functional against the bitter chill in cities with skyscraper-propelled winds, après-ski wear can be refreshed when pared with tailored pieces—a move empowered by paired down parkas, down filled jackets, and slim ski pants offered by a handful of designers.

    Photographed in New York, NY by Michael Norwood

    One collection leading the charge is Ralph Lauren’s luxurious performance line, RLX. Its design is driven by a particular emphasis on technology. The pièce de résistance? An orange solar panel backpack ($800) made in Italy of water-resistant fabric. While it’s certainly not cheap, its solar panel can charge a phone in two to three hours while carving up the slopes...or running around Manhattan. Let’s get real, it could potentially save your life if you were stranded on a mountain—or perhaps even your job if you forgot your charger while running errands. I digress. There are more familiar pieces as well. My RLX “AC Ascender” down jacket is crafted in water-and-wind resistant featherweight nylon packed with 160 grams of down fill for an ideal balance of warmth and comfort. It’s available in fun, bright, preppy colors as well as tamer options like grey and black. The winter collection as a whole, available online at RalphLauren.com and in Bloomingdale's, is just as much at home on the street as it is on the slopes. Just because you’re back from Aspen doesn’t mean your ski gear must be relegated to the back of your closet.

    Rig:
    • RLX (everything)
    Deja Vu Refinery tortoise shell sunglasses

    Jan 3, 2012 | Permalink (13) View/Leave Comments

    Joey Dee left a comment on 1/8/2012 at 9:30 PM:

    Nice pants. Are the pockets smaller,concealed versions of cargo pockets? If so, its about time someone took the bulk out of cargo pockets.


    DJ Ren left a comment on 1/4/2012 at 7:11 AM:

    Thanks FEC, but not exactly answering my question. I “own” a vintage Patek, but I didn’t buy it - it was my grandfathers, then fathers.

    Did you purchase the jacket retail?


    S.G. left a comment on 1/4/2012 at 1:37 AM:

    @AEV, that was a pretty “jerkish” remark


    M Arthur left a comment on 1/3/2012 at 8:59 PM:

    Rugged look F.E.  Your lime shades would hunt well with the look.  As for technology and functionality wardrobe design, I have to give the Oscar to Zegna.


    JNN left a comment on 1/3/2012 at 8:34 PM:

    Love it all but the shades. Those just don’t do anything for me.


    DBCC left a comment on 1/3/2012 at 3:14 PM:

    @FEC, I love the bright colors that are offered by RLX and I enjoy how you’re showcasing them in the city.  Happy new year.


    AEV left a comment on 1/3/2012 at 2:39 PM:

    Fred,
    How do you weigh/balance the profiling of items that almost no one would ever wear with the need to market pieces that are gifted to you?


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 1/3/2012 at 2:15 PM:

    @DJ Ren—I own the jacket.

    @Bill—I ride bowls occasionally on my snowboard. There are probably other readers that ski off piste though.

    @MGM—The trail/hiking boot with pant tucked under wool socks can work in the city when the rest of your look isn’t so literal. It’s about the mix…and massaging it until it feels comfortable for you.


    Paul left a comment on 1/3/2012 at 1:26 PM:

    Please tell us about the scarf and pants!


    DJ Ren left a comment on 1/3/2012 at 1:07 PM:

    Were you gifted the parka and backpack, or did you purchase them retail, FEC?


    Bill left a comment on 1/3/2012 at 10:39 AM:

    Stranded on a mountain? Do you do a lot of off piste skiing Castleberry?


    Angelan gel left a comment on 1/3/2012 at 10:05 AM:

    @MGM- I haven’t seen it with tall boots just yet, but I have seen that look with Chukka boots

    Angels Point of View


    MGM left a comment on 1/3/2012 at 8:17 AM:

    This is a great look, although I do wish you would have shown us what was covering your feet.  When I see looks like this featured on Ralph Lauren-type sites, I notice that many of the models wear high boots with their pants tucked into their long wool socks, which rise above the boots.  What do you think of this look?  I am reluctant to try it, largely because I have NEVER seen anyone wear this look in the “real” world.


    image

  • Deja Vu Refinery

    Style  

    It’s rare these days to find a designer that is not only pouring their entire being into their collection but actually creating quality pieces. Jason Pollak is one of those designers. His voice gets pitchy when he starts talking about his 45 degree arm joints, historically accurate flat lenses, and custom lens colors (like beer bottle green and polarized beer bottle brown). In a previous life, Pollak was a men's vintage clothing and accessories dealer with a particular fascination for iconic eye-wear. Today, he is holed up on the east coast painstakingly designing luxury eye-wear under the masthead Deja Vu Refinery.

    DEBONAIR BRAD tortoise shell frame w/Beer Bottle Green lenses ($333)
    Image via Eric Ryan Anderson

    Deja Vu Refinery’s DEBONAIR frames, vaguely reminiscent of vintage Tart Optical Arnels, are handmade by master craftsmen and boast 7 barrel hinges (not just five), functional rivets, and rounded arm ends (an improvement on the Arnel). But one need not be an eye-wear connoisseur to appreciate the meticulous attention to detail. The flat face and lenses are an instantly recognizable distinction between modern interpretations of vintage eye-wear and period accurate vintage reproductions. It’s readily apparent Deja Vu Refinery has crafted something special (each frame is assigned a unique serial number). The spectacles are presented in a time capsule case wrapped up in brown butcher paper boasting quirky skeleton art and a glow-in-the-dark wax seal. Deja Vu Refinery offers 10 custom colored high quality zylonite frames in the DEBONAIR silhouette. Though the go-to-hell TOSH frames (my favorite) in translucent lime green aren’t for everyone, the traditional tortoise shells are as classic as the iconic frames that came before.

    Dec 16, 2011 | Permalink (18) View/Leave Comments

    cam left a comment on 1/4/2012 at 2:42 PM:

    And I would select these over Cutler and Gross because?


    Kabin left a comment on 1/3/2012 at 6:20 PM:

    Lens technology has only advanced but very little since the 1950s/60s. Yes, you may select some now-au-go-go advanced lenses but you may find that they are little more than “hype”. Just the fact that the “modern” lens offerings are used on 6 & 8 curved lenses practically nullify “advancements” when compared to the flat lenses lack of distortion. So one must weigh the benefits of “newness” versus timeless beauty.


    oxford cloth button down left a comment on 12/29/2011 at 6:56 PM:

    Nice jacket. Those glasses look pretty cool.


    Dan from England left a comment on 12/26/2011 at 2:50 PM:

    Fred, I would like to take this opportunity to wish you and your family a very Happy Christmas and all the best for 2012.


    Julien left a comment on 12/26/2011 at 1:41 PM:

    A well-dressed man driving a beautiful car: it’s perfection!

    And also a good combination to pick up girls : )
    Well done Fred !
    (Of course, it’s a joke and I hope you’re not shocked).


    Kionon left a comment on 12/25/2011 at 6:33 PM:

    Merry Christmas, FEC.


    B. L. Davis left a comment on 12/25/2011 at 11:47 AM:

    Fred:  Merry Christmas.  It’s been a good year for you and U.P.  I’m wearing your shirt from Jack Robbie for the Christmas Eve celebrations.  Hope that all is well.  2012 is going to be even better.
    Ben


    Joey Dee left a comment on 12/24/2011 at 1:11 PM:

    Thanks for another great year of style tips and ideas.
    To all the readers, and FEC:
    May the blessings of light peace and prosperity be with you now and for the year to come
    Joey Dee


    DEJA VU REFINERY left a comment on 12/24/2011 at 12:27 PM:

    @KDM Just go check the photos on our DEJAVUREFINERY.COM , because we shot them with people like you in mind. Some shots (RIVER for ex.) are actually through the lens and at the at typed words, for evaluation of clarity. You get an uncommonly accurate sense of each of our lens’ clarity if you look at the slide shows on our website. No joke; ‘world’s best contender’.


    KDM left a comment on 12/24/2011 at 12:05 PM:

    @Dejavu
    Thank you for the clarification, at least now I know that FEC isn’t driving his BMW around blind.


    Tim left a comment on 12/23/2011 at 5:53 PM:

    Can’t do 333 but all the styles look wicked cool.  Glad to see such dedication to a product.


    DEJA VU REFINERY left a comment on 12/23/2011 at 10:04 AM:

    @KDM Our lenses are custom manufactured and offer better vision than anything you currently own. Our lenses are hailed as the best on the market by some of our customers (see facebook). Our lenses meet FDA & EU standards, as do our frames themselves. I hope this clears up your perception.


    KDM left a comment on 12/23/2011 at 9:46 AM:

    Why would one pay 300+ dollars for a pair of sunglasses that have “vintage” lenses.  Unlike many other articles of clothing, shoes, blazers, watches..ect, lense technology has improved greatly since the 1960s.  The reason costa del mar glasses are so popular is because of the quality of the lenses.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/22/2011 at 5:17 PM:

    @$Bill42—

    Jacket: Norman Hilton
    Tie: Ralph Lauren
    Shirt: Rugby
    Jeans: Rugby
    Watch: vintage Omega Seamaster
    Pocket Square: navy bandana handkerchief


    $Bill42 left a comment on 12/22/2011 at 4:46 PM:

    Where can the rest of the “ensemble” be found?”  (jacket, tie , shirt….?????)  Norman/Nick Hilton????


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/22/2011 at 2:33 PM:

    @Thea—1987 535i BMW.


    Snaaby left a comment on 12/22/2011 at 2:31 PM:

    Looks like an e28 in the pics. If so, what year? The glasses are killer, by the way!


    Thea left a comment on 12/22/2011 at 2:31 PM:

    what car do you have?


    image

  • Allen Edmonds Long Wingtip

    Top Drawer | Style  

    It's a chilly November night in the Empire City and I'm walking into a hotel bar in midtown...Lex bar, I think. The heads of Allen Edmonds have set up shop on the pool table—an impressive spread of their 2012 spring collection of chukkas, brogues, and loafers in new color ways, burnished leathers, and refined silhouettes. I take a couple BBQ sliders in hand. They're good. I don't recall eating lunch—or breakfast for that matter—so they're better than good. They're on the verge of great.

    Allen Edmonds Williams Long Wingtip (brown burnished calf, $445)

    Allen Edmonds call themselves The Great American Shoe Company. Perhaps that is fitting for the 90 year old shoe manufacturer out of Belgium, Wisconsin that was, until 1978, run solely by family. Elbert W. Allen built the company on his innovative manufacturing techniques that relied on Goodyear welting to make fashionable and durable shoes that were nail-less and shankless (meaning they had no uncomfortable metal bar under the instep).  Before you've taken your first step, Allen Edmonds has already taken 212 in each handcrafted pair. That, along with strong and steady leadership, set the precedent for long term success despite the hard times of the Great Depression, the rationing years of World War II, and the mounting pressures of foreign competition in the 1960s and '70s.

    Mark McNeill, Allen Edmonds' head designer, is walking me through his latest designs. We stop at The Independence Collection, a new line of higher-end shoes priced at $445. I finger the reworked long wingtip (named after Declaration of Independence signer William Williams) for a solid five minutes before McNeill's discourse snaps back into my consciousness just in time to learn about wheeling, a sole detail that has been reintroduced for the first time in 30 years. Supple yet durable, the brown burnished leather is the finest Allen Edmonds can get their hands on. In fact, over 70% of the skins are rejected for The Independence Collection. As I polish off my last BBQ slider, I realize these longwings aren't just good, they're on the verge of great.

    Dec 14, 2011 | Permalink (14) View/Leave Comments

    Mike left a comment on 12/23/2011 at 9:13 PM:

    If you have not worn a pair of AE’s I think you will switch from Alden to AE.  AE is like butter.


    emjkmj left a comment on 12/22/2011 at 1:32 PM:

    I don’t know if it’s a Ford vs. Chevy thing, but I find there is two camps in the American made shoe world.  The Allen Edmonds camp and the Alden camp.  Since I have been wearing Alden shoes for church since middle school, I find myself in the latter.


    Morty62 left a comment on 12/22/2011 at 9:28 AM:

    I bought a pair of brown AE wingtips earlier this year and absolutely love them. They look very elegant, fit to perfection and the detailing is very subtle.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/22/2011 at 9:07 AM:

    @LG—There is no such thing as a free lunch.


    LG left a comment on 12/22/2011 at 9:04 AM:

    Are you getting free stuff for these endorsements? If so, it would be ethical to bring that to everyone’s attention…


    Cheap adidas shoes left a comment on 12/22/2011 at 1:23 AM:

    Do the Adidas Angry Birds Shoes needs patience, and there is really a Adidas Mickey Mouse Shoes in the heart


    AEV left a comment on 12/21/2011 at 5:07 PM:

    Nice shoes - no doubt.


    Shoedog left a comment on 12/20/2011 at 2:30 PM:

    Wisco Kid… Allen Edmonds doesn’t make any shoes in MN.  Their factory is in Port Washington, Wisconsin.


    Ron left a comment on 12/20/2011 at 10:29 AM:

    Great shoes , we used to call longwings Royal Brogues back in the early 70’s , a timeless design .

    They should bring back the Cornell or another split toe monk !


    Mike left a comment on 12/19/2011 at 10:15 PM:

    I remember my first purchase of Allen Edmonds lace ups.  When the sales man tighten and tied the laces, it was a beautiful thing!  What quality and comfort!  The long wing is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship!  I intend to grab a pair!


    Wisco Kid left a comment on 12/19/2011 at 8:37 PM:

    As a Wisconsinite, I respect and wear Allen Edmonds.  Though they are generally now made in MN, they are still 100% USA - which explains the quality.  A little tip for those looking to not pay full price - check out the factory stores!


    MGM left a comment on 12/19/2011 at 6:11 PM:

    Yea, I love me some Allen Edmonds shoes.  In fact, I just love shoes generally.  That is the one item I will never get tired of perusing when I walk into men’s department stores.  Blazers, shirts, ties, etc. etc.—I have seen them all.  Nothing really to look forward to (it is just a matter of collecting everything I have seen).  But with shoes, the thrill (for me) never dies when I walk into a store to see all the lovely variations of various style of shoes.  And Allen Edmonds is certainly one of the best companies out there doing it.


    DNubbins left a comment on 12/19/2011 at 2:25 PM:

    Glad to see Allen Edmonds get in the game. Alden has stolen their thunder recently. I’ve been wearing their shoes for years.  I hope other blogs catch on.  I agree with Richard: their resoling program is excellent.


    Richard Ross left a comment on 12/19/2011 at 12:42 PM:

    Allen Edmonds is such an outstanding company. I have been wearing them for years but it is due to my father’s long term relationship with the company. I have several pairs of my father’s shoes that are over fifteen years old. Still kickin’. Their resoling program is top notch.


    image

  • Vintage Stanley Blacker Blazer

    Style | Dress Code  

    I wear vintage clothing if for no other reason than we don't make them like we used to. Hell, in most cases, "we" [Americans] don't even make them anymore. There is good news though—vintage can be had on the cheap. The very best bargains are found in the stores where you have to roll up your sleeves. Bobby From Boston—my favorite vintage men's shop in New England— offers just that, an overwhelming thrill of discovery every time you duck in.

    Back in October, I popped in for 15 minutes while in Boston and dug in. It paid off. Made in the USA from authentic Harris Tweed, this Stanley Blacker jacket was in surprisingly good condition. I had already resolved to Cinderella my way into it...but luckily it didn't come to that. The handwoven tweed framed my shoulders perfectly. The button stance sat right above my navel. The single vent covered my bum just so. But finding it (for $45 no less) was just the beginning.

    I had my tailor let out the sleeves, sew on leather elbow patches, and add a fourth knotted leather button for an updated look ($80). While I was at The Head of the Charles, I met an Amsterdam rowing club that passed their rowing blazers down through the ranks as each athlete moved on. They kept a record of this by hand stitching their initials under the right lapel. I took a leaf out of their book and thought it appropriate for this vintage sport-coat.

    Rig:
    Lookmatic tort shell eyeglasses
    • Vintage Stanly Blacker sport-coat
    • Paisley handkerchief
    • Vintage Gant foulard tie
    • Brass collar pin
    • Ralph Lauren tartan dress shirt
    • Vintage Omega Seamaster wrist watch
    • J.Press leather belt and monogrammed brass engine turn buckle
    • Rugby selvedge denim
    • Rugby socks
    Cole Haan saddle oxfords
    Wentworth pewter flask

    Dec 5, 2011 | Permalink (66) View/Leave Comments

    st. clair left a comment on 12/12/2011 at 4:20 PM:

    Looks like you are packing heat.


    SM left a comment on 12/9/2011 at 12:30 PM:

    What a sweet blazer.  Love the cut, the material, and especially the elbow patches you had sewn in.


    Edward left a comment on 12/8/2011 at 1:36 PM:

    Fred, love the look, the red jacket is an unbelievable look. I especially love the personalized label you had sewn in. Where could I order some labels like that for myself?


    Fred H. left a comment on 12/8/2011 at 12:11 PM:

    Great find and terrific additional flourishes. Four and a half stars!


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/8/2011 at 9:15 AM:

    @DD—I know some in NYC but not Fairfield county. In finding a tailor, you simply want someone who is competent, has some years under their belt, and listens to you. Most of the time, you won’t need extremely difficult alterations done…for those, you might want to travel to NYC.


    DD left a comment on 12/8/2011 at 7:39 AM:

    Love the personal touches . . . Any good tailor suggestions in the Westport, CT/ Fairfield County Area?


    Richard Ross left a comment on 12/8/2011 at 1:27 AM:

    Oh. My. Gosh. That’s the jacket, bro. That is THE jacket. I can’t stop looking at it.


    DS left a comment on 12/7/2011 at 10:44 AM:

    tell me more about the dutch rowers grin


    Makaga left a comment on 12/7/2011 at 10:42 AM:

    I love that you added the initials under the lapel; what a great personal touch.  I have seen older hats where gentlemen have had their friends sign on the inside of the hat.  I also met a British fellow who jotted his friends phone numbers (pre cell phone era) onto the underside of his jacket lapels.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/7/2011 at 9:55 AM:

    @ATL—After doing some reaearch, I handstitched the initials of the known previous owners and then my own ititials.

    @Julien—Very wise choice going with Crockett & Jones. Great English shoemaker.

    @Kevin—The rise on my jeans is probably best described as a mid-rise. These are Rugby selvesge denim and the fit is slim. I did not have them altered in any way.


    ATL left a comment on 12/7/2011 at 9:23 AM:

    Wait a minute, I’m confused.  Did you add all of the rowing team’s initials or just your own as the last one?


    Julien left a comment on 12/7/2011 at 4:03 AM:

    @FEC
    I saw your post on SB’s blog and I really like your style.
    Sometimes I try to inspire me of your style but it’s not easy.
    Moreover, in this regard, finally I didn’t buy the brogues on ebay which I told you. I broke my piggy bank and I bought a pair of Crockett and Jones Belgrave’s model gold colored, in suede (calf-velvet). : )

    Note : Excuse-me for mistakes, but I don’t speak English very well… I’m French


    kevin left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 9:35 PM:

    love the look. i was just wondering what fit your jeans were? the rise looks a bit higher which i’ve been looking for. looks like u got it tapered as well? thanks!


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 2:56 PM:

    @Chens—I completely understand where you are coming from. Let’s just say most of the time I am not spending time with hypersensitive men’s style blog readers, so it’s rarely an issue in my day to day life. Most of my friends don’t even notice these so called “affectations.”


    Chens left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 2:16 PM:

    As someone who’s been called affected more than once, I’d say that the man’s intentions are irrelevant: his peers will judge him affected or not.

    It’s similar to art: What an artist meant to say and how the public takes it are two totally different things. I think of Upton Sinclair’s quip about the response to his novel “The Jungle”: “I aimed for public’s heart and hit them in the stomach.”

    So while paint-splattered pants, denim jacket with pocket square, jacket and tie but no socks, and parka over a sportcoat may feel “natural” to the wearer, it’s highly possible that a large percentage of one’s peers might find them the sartorial equivalent of publicity stunts.


    George left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 11:52 AM:

    I love every piece, head to toe. The Stanley Blacker says it all: Harris, 100%, Made in USA, everything. I’m celebrating this look in high style. Very well done.


    emjkmj left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 11:03 AM:

    Question.  If you follow the rules aren’t you also following someone else’s sensibilities?  Aren’t we all following someone???


    dam left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 10:49 AM:

    AEV does a great job of raising certain points from time to time, yet I don’t think he always does the greatest job of conveying them.  So many of his posts come off as cynical or condescending to me, which is a bit of a bummer.  It’s a shame someone who clearly has solid knowledge of the menswear world can’t always just sit back and leave the emotions out of an argument. 

    Should this monk strap be unbuckled?  Who is responsible for the tie twist?  Why is he wearing this un-tucked, or why does that look affected?  No socks with dress shoes!?

    Honestly, who cares where he “copied” this “affected” tie twist or the unbuckled monk strap?  Sid Mashburn rocks.  I copy him, too.  In fact, Sid has made an entire business of getting people to “copy” him.  There are Sid Mashburn clones walking all over Atlanta and around the country, too!  And the best part is, I’m sure Sid got these ideas from someone else.  The twisted tie? Probably a little bit of Agnelli.  The sneakers with dress clothes?  Maybe McQueen or Newman.  The unbuckled monk straps?  Those are probably from the sprezzatura’ed out Italian dudes all over the fashion world. Think Lino Leluzzi or any of the other big “underground” names in Italian menswear.  All these dudes probably got their ideas from someone else as well!  It’s a continuous cycle.  Think about it!  Why do we all leave the bottom button on our vests unbuttoned?  God forbid we’d copy the Prince of Wales!

    As someone who grew up in a culture some would dub “preppy,” a lot of the infatuation today with being “preppy” just makes me role my eyes.  I can’t stand Vineyard vines, and Rugby Ralph Lauren always seems to be trying too hard to me.  I loathe when people talk about “fratty” and “preppy” being the same thing.  However, those are my own personal beliefs.  Do I think someone from Arizona can’t wear Nantucket reds?  No.  Would I put someone down for thinking Rugby does a great job?  Of course not.  I understand where AEV’s whole argument of not coming off as a poser (for lack of better word) comes into play.  Because, after too many “affectations” or “quirks,” one may indeed appear that way.  However, when you make something your own, being “affected” just doesn’t apply anymore.  If you’re going to choose to dress a certain way, you need to own it.  I think Fred does a good job of this.  It’s all in the confidence and the way you carry yourself. 

    Fashion is all about constant reinterpretation and reinvention based on one’s personal ideas and feelings.  We’re taking our varying personal upbringings, from economic backgrounds to geographic locations, and combining them with different aspects of the global culture of fashion to form our OWN unique opinions.  Fashion and style are all about cultivating your own personal image.  If you like something someone else does, copy it.  If you don’t like it, don’t.  Make it yours, and you can do whatever you want with it. That’s the most fun part about fashion.

    If you read this blog regularly you can see that is what Fred is clearly out to do.  Do I think he’s perfect?  No.  I usually agree with about 50% of Fred’s outfits on here, but I can certainly appreciate where he’s coming from.  Keep it up, FEC.


    Joey Dee left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 10:49 AM:

    To be clear, rakish is to be taken in terms of fashionable.


    Joey Dee left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 10:43 AM:

    Very rakish indeed, and just in time for the season of frivolity. Great find on the jacket. Thrifting is very rewarding when one has the time and a solid idea of what they are after, time after time, I have found vintage Dior’s, Burberry, Hugo Boss, Lagerfeld; I could go on and on.
    Who are the initials above yours, if I may ask?


    Big Jon left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 8:58 AM:

    What’s in that flask, FE? (LOL)

    That’s a very nice jacket. By the way, I liked that post they did about you at The Style Blogger website.


    Sarah left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 8:07 AM:

    To put it quite simply, if you find FEC’s style ‘affected’ or take his style choices as ‘imitation’ or ‘unnatural’, then you have crossed the line from constructive criticism to rather personally offensive. As FEC kindly remarked,  ‘There is nothing new under the Sun…just new interpretations.’ This is a personal interpretation on a classic look, and there’s not a person out there with a style completely uninfluenced by style icons or those around him/her.

    To a point, online banter is all well and good. But before posting critical comments about how you could do the look better, take into account that you have not in fact posted this particular look for international sartorial critique. You have not developed a brand for yourself based off of your eye for style, and you have never written and shared a part of yourself with a world hunched like wolves, waiting to pounce on the smallest facet of your style that they do not agree with because they have nothing better to do than sit in front of their computer screen every day and critique someone else’s personal style.

    Have a little compassion…and if not, at least the courage to define yourself in a public sphere as FEC has bravely done. It’s harder than it looks, as every established blog author is aware.


    Tito left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 6:37 AM:

    @Dan from England - I’m not going to lie but I felt the same way years ago about shopping on thrift shops, but THE CUT on the blazers are awesome. basically I have to do NOTHING!
    Contemporary blazers I have to do alterations on the sleeves all the darn time, and not to mention that a Harris tweed made blazer nowadays would clean up your pocket. I’m on a budget but at same time I want to look nice, so from now on I’m going second hand (vintage lol).


    Julien left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 6:30 AM:

    Great look! As usual : )


    Dan from England left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 2:09 AM:

    I don’t really get this whole “vintage” thing. In the UK we called it second hand until very recently when we have started to adopt the American term vintage. I really don’t think I would feel comfortable in vintage/second hand stuff. One thing I don’t understand is how you can by a new Rolex Submarina for £5,000 but to buy one 20 years old which looks pretty much the same and you pay multiples of that….to me it is madness , but then as I said I don’t really get the vintage thing. But cool jacket I have never seen a red Harris Tweed jacket before.


    bean left a comment on 12/6/2011 at 12:53 AM:

    this post reminds me of one of my own recent finds… i collect old national geographics and the best place to find ‘em is savers, usually ($0.29 each, come on!)... a couple months ago i HAPPENED to check the racks, too, just to kill time… ended up scoring an american-made, royal blue pendleton wool blazer. brand new with tags (but at least a decade or two old) and even with the ‘extra’ buttons. not a cent over $5.00. i’ve been so pleased with it and am complimented often.


    Tim left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 10:33 PM:

    Shout out to bobby from Boston! My regular stops are bobby, ball and buck, and the j crew men’s shop. Great purchase and alterations. Give a heads up next time you’re here!


    emjkmj left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 8:39 PM:

    This is how Agnelli wore his tie.

    http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=8734


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 8:22 PM:

    @Daniel—For starters, I don’t tie my tie like Agnelli.  I don’t even really know how he ties his knots.  It would be foolish to think that Agnelli didn’t have his own style icons…icons in which he lifted nuances from and then made his own.


    Daniel left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 8:17 PM:

    Agnelli’s tie wasn’t affected because it was tied this way or that. But is yours affected when you tie it this way because Agnelli did it? Sure.

    @ Cam, I didn’t say that it was wrong. I said that it was more an effect of the menswear blogosphere than it was a personal quirk… a wink to those who recognize the allusion to Agnelli or to Pollock. Claiming that as personal style is disingenuous.


    cam left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 7:59 PM:

    i have to agree with FEC here to a point. i would NEVER (and i rarely say never) wear some of the things he does in the way that he does but that doesn’t mean it’s wrong. i don’t recall FEC ever stating that people should dress a certain way. he is him and he dresses in a manner that makes him happy. it’s friggin clothing after all right? i am more trad in my dress but that is ME. that is all


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 7:49 PM:

    @Daniel—An affectation ceases to be an affectation the moment it is no longer unnatural but natural. All I can assure you is that the way I dress is completely natural for me. Who am I to tell you any differently? Am I going to tell Agnelli his tie is “affected” because it’s twisted this way or that?  Or that he can’t wear his watch over his shirt cuff because I personally think it looks unnatural?  That is his business.


    Christian Bourasseau left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 7:49 PM:

    There’s nothing forced in this picture. Everything flows just like water. Awesome outfit Fred!


    Daniel left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 7:36 PM:

    @ AEV—I put “personal quirks” in quotation marks because my point is that they are not in fact personal, but reflective of the community that FEC belongs to (the menswear fashion industry). I live near Lincoln Center and witnessed this community’s uniform “personal quirks” firsthand during NYC fashion week. In FEC’s community, twisting one’s tie, not wearing socks, etc., are accepted and a sign that one is in the know. I’m not as familiar with the world of lobbyists in DC but, based on your comments, not wearing socks with lace-ups or having the back of one’s tie be longer than the front would be unacceptable and a clear sign that one is not “in”. These are the more mainstream rules, and that’s all I meant by that comment. You and FEC live in different universes with different standards of what’s acceptable. Just as it would be silly for FEC to criticize you for wearing socks or for having the front of your tie be in front of the back of it, it doesn’t make sense for you to critique him for following his community’s standards of acceptability. My original comment was less to do with your style - I enjoyed the AEV week - than a response to FEC’s contention that the tie is a personal touch.
    I agree that the twisted tie is affected. “All the things you are proclaiming are forced, I do out of habit *now*” fits the dictionary definition of affected. FEC seems to be fine with appropriating from others and calling it personal once it becomes natural. I could start speaking with a Southern drawl because I liked the sound of it. Eventually it would become natural. But that doesn’t mean that it’s not affected. Not that it doesn’t work - ask the Connecticut kid who eventually became Governor of Texas and then President wink


    Tito left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 7:13 PM:

    Love that blazer sir!
    I did some thrift shopping my self about a month ago and I found a Jos A Bank tweed blazer, with the Harris tweed emblem on it. what is interesting that all the goods made with Harris tweed has a unique serial number on it.
    Long story short, I got it for $ 5.00 dollars and is intact.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 7:02 PM:

    @AEV—Congratulations on two accounts: that fact that you were able to identify one of my style icons (Sid Mashburn) for one. Even style icons have style icons. There is nothing new under the Sun…just new interpretations. The reality is that personal quirks become personal over time through repetition…a manner in which one does things. You coming along and crying “affected!” has no affect on me because I already feel at home in my style (through repetition, time, and tweaks).

    Secondly, congratulations on dressing “well.”  I wouldn’t have previously photographed you for Unabashedly Prep if that weren’t the case.  But dressing well doesn’t always translate into personal style that resonates with people.  I’m interested in clothing beyond dressing well…there is a personal expression in it for me…a non verbal message I’m communicating.  Classic American sportswear (or preppy/trad clothing) is our my palette but I’m painting a different picture than you are.


    AEV left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 6:35 PM:

    @Daniel/FEC—“Personal quirks” are, by definition, personal. Affectations are forced, copy cat moves done to feign personal style, nonchalance, originality, etc. The unbuckled double monk strap shoes? Fred picked that up from Sid Mashburn. The twisted/mistied tie? Mashburn again.

    I don’t ‘follow mainstream rules’ - in fact, one of my few ‘rules’ is to wear my own clothes, honestly and to not overtly copy other people’s quirks and ‘looks’ wholesale. Given that I’ve been dressing essentially the same way my whole life - not riding a ‘prep’ trend - it means that my quirks/clothes are mine. Do I tie my necktie correctly as to not look like a fool? Guilty. Do I buckle/tie my shoes? Yup. Do I button down my button down collar (unless I honestly forget or am in a rush, only to correct it later)? Yes sir. Do I wear warm clothes (socks) when it’s cold outside. Sure do. This isn’t a slavish marriage to outmoded, staid ‘rules’ - it’s dressing like an adult.


    Daniel left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 6:13 PM:

    Nice socks! The blazer looks great.
    Re: AEV’s comment on the tie, I feel like these “personal quirks” (cuffed jeans, one undone buckle on double monks, uneven and twisted tie, no socks, an armful of bracelets (which you don’t follow)) are the style blogger’s version of the mainstream rules AEV follows. Both say something about which group you identify with, rather than who you are as an individual.
    Re: MGM, you would laugh at someone who puts vodka or tequila in a flask? Why’s that?


    Hilton left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 5:36 PM:

    What is your contact email address, Mr. Castleberry? Thanks.


    MGM left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 5:33 PM:

    AND FEC—here’s the big question that hasn’t been asked yet: What is in the flask?

    Personally, I only carry BOURBON whiskey in a flask.  Now, I love me some scotch and irish whiskey, but I have never felt right drinking it out of a flask.  Bourbon seems the only appropriate choice.  I would just laugh at someone if they put in something like vodka or tequila in their flask.


    Matthew left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 5:30 PM:

    You look perfect to a T.


    MGM left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 5:30 PM:

    Yea, I have as many blazers as I do (about 25) largely because I purchased most of them at Goodwill—- and then had them tailored.  However, I can say that the one downside (from experience) is this: sometimes your blazer will look so F***-in good that people can’t help but ask what brand/label it is.  This is where I have to bow my head and admit that it is vintage.  Personally, I always like flapping open the jacket and showing my friends/girls the Polo Ralph Lauren or Brooks Brothers label.  THAT IS THE ONLY DOWNSIDE TO VINTAGE SHOPPING.  And, yes, it is terribly vain.

    I do have a larger question—FEC: where do you stop with the tailoring?  I generally don’t mind buying blazers cheaply at all because they are so easy to tailor.  I just have to hand them over to my tailor and he knows what to do.  But it gets a little more difficult when you take oxford shirts and pants in, isn’t it?  I have had good experiences with having my oxford shirts tailored (basically, tapered), but my experience with pants have been mixed.  I have purchased some great looking vintage pants, with really unique patterns, and have taken them into my tailor, but they never really come out right.  The stitching up the leg LOOKS like it was re-stitched, and I don’t like that.


    Blevins left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 4:21 PM:

    @FEC, good move with the elbow patches. Not sure I understand the point of jackets coming with them to begin with - they need to be earned through long service, as this jacket’s clearly were.


    Caroline Fontenot left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 4:17 PM:

    What an incredible find!! If we ever find ourselves within an hour of that store it is now on the must visit list. I always ask where the best vintage stores are in towns we visit.


    Dave left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 4:00 PM:

    I’ve got a couple items with the Stanley Blacker label..what’s the history of that label? Who made it?


    DBCC left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 3:54 PM:

    @FEC this is right up my alley, literally and figuratively.  Bobby from Boston is the best vintage shop I’ve ever set foot in.  The jacket was phenomenal right off the rack, but you went and made it phenonomenally yours by adding the details that you desired. The leather elbow patches and leather wrapped buttons are mint, nice touch, Fred!  Love it.  From the inseam of your denim, to your belt (mine arrives today), to your collar pin - it’s all deadly.  What’s in the flask?


    cam left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 2:49 PM:

    @fec - great spread on thestyleblogger.com!


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 2:26 PM:

    Some of you guys are describing some really neat vintage finds.  I wish I could see them all.

    @Dan from England—After some research on the origin of the jacket, I stitched in as much of its previous ownership as I could dig up in addition to my own initials.

    @Randy—These frames are indeed Lookmatic’s Andy frame; however, I am not quite sure what you mean when ask what size they are. You need only enter your prescription when ordering RX glasses with Lookmatic.

    @Matt—I have my woven labels made with Colonial Tag & Label in New York.

    @Blevins—The sleeves are in very good condition.  I added the elbow patches not only for reasons pertaining to form, but to preserve what was left of the elbows.

    @Chris—Yes, the Amsterdam Rowing Club was Nereus.


    Dan from England left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 2:17 PM:

    Fred , I am guessing you not only added your initials but also the others ? If so I think that is a bit OTT !


    randy left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 1:57 PM:

    Are those the Andy’s? What size are they??


    Matt left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 1:55 PM:

    Fred, where did you have the name labels made?


    Blevins left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 1:16 PM:

    Were the sleeves / elbows in good condition when you found the jacket, or had they worn down? Best thing about harris tweed is how hard wearing it is…


    Paul left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 1:00 PM:

    1. Bobby From Boston is my favorite store in town.
    2. You are wearing socks.
    (Just had to throw that one out there)


    Chris left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 12:01 PM:

    Was it Nereus?


    Andy M. left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 11:26 AM:

    One of my favorite of your outfits Fred.  This is spot-on all the way.  Terrific find.  I’m pulling out a red blazer for this year’s Christmas parties and am practically counting down the days.


    John G. left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 11:23 AM:

    Looks beautiful and effortless to me. Love the style and attention to detail. Also enjoy reading the opinions that don’t agree. It’s all good smile


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 10:57 AM:

    @AEV—You just don’t get “it.” I tie the same type of knot as most men but with a twist/quirk to account for my personal taste. All the things you are proclaiming are forced, I do out of habit now. It’s not in me to do it “your” way.


    Bumby left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 10:54 AM:

    Well done!
    I just picked up a BB Camel from the Goodwill, in great shape for $6.99. I was looking for a Tweed and came home with a Camel. Love it when things work out that way.
    Always, Bumby


    AEV left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 10:48 AM:

    @FEC—Yes, I know this is you and it’s you readers are reacting to/commenting on. Saying you tie a ‘four in hand’ - as almost everyone does - is not the same as purposely mis-tying it length-wise and deliberately, awkwardly twisting it…it’s just so forced and kicked.


    Campbell left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 10:40 AM:

    Bobby from Boston remains one of the most inspiring places, aesthetically speaking, I have ever shopped, and was a gem of my college days in New England =)


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 10:38 AM:

    @AEV—This is how I get dressed. This is how I tie my tie (four-in-hand), how I wear my jeans, etc. This is me…not you.

    @NWR—As AEV pointed out, have the jacket taken up to the same length as your other jackets (your tailor will tell you if you have enough to play with) and look at having the padding removed.  Good luck.


    AEV left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 10:32 AM:

    @NWR - why not take it to a tailor? you should be able to shorten it and remove the padding for $35-40.00….


    AEV left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 10:30 AM:

    Cool blazer - no doubt about it. But what would have been so wrong with just throwing all of these items without the excessive over-thinking?


    NWR left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 10:30 AM:

    Great look, FEC. I also have a tweed sport coat I picked up from a vintage shop, but I’m always hesitant to wear it. It seems to be a solid inch longer than modern sport coats and it has padding in the shoulders; otherwise, it fits superbly. Does this one have the same attributes? Do these make mine unwearable in your opinion? I don’t want to look outdated.


    mjl left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 10:28 AM:

    my favorite blazer is one i picked up at a vintage store for $8.  it’s a wool herringbone mostly grey with a bunch of other colors woven in that goes with everything i own from jeans to dress.  all i had to do was take it in a pinch.  i’ve kept my eye out for a killer red one, but with no luck. nice grab fred!


    Carly left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 10:19 AM:

    Ask me about the Dutch guys from Henley!!! They had amazing stories behind their blazers!!!


    image

  • Navy Blue Blazer

    Top Drawer | Style | Prep Essentials  

    If there has been one mainstay in the closets of the well-dressed for the past century, it's the gold buttoned navy blue blazer. It's the work horse behind any prep's wardrobe worth a damn. Out grew the 9 year-old hand-me-down with your older brother's Prep school insignia? Not to worry. This one, interpreted by Norman Hilton in an 80/20 wool/cashmere blend, is as pure as it gets. And it's soft...real soft. Interpreted from an original Norman Hilton pattern from 1963, it boasts an undarted front, single hooked back vent, true natural shoulder, a classic 3/2 roll notch lapel, and a detachable throat latch.

    Norman Hilton Charter Navy Blazer ($695), Benson & Clegg Fox Mask Buttons ($100)

    In a move as sly as...well, a fox, I had my tailor swap out the unembellished buttons for a set of fox mask gold buttons redolent of Wes Anderson's Fantastic Mr. Fox. They are handmade in England by Benson & Clegg, a top quality bespoke tailor who happens to be a Royal Warrant holder to the Prince of Wales. The buttons are created by craftsmen following a tradition of artistry and excellence established in the 18th century. The navy blazer and fox mask buttons are both available at Sir Jack's, a preeminent outfitter to the modern gentleman.

    Dec 2, 2011 | Permalink (22) View/Leave Comments

    PP2318 left a comment on 12/31/2011 at 8:55 PM:

    Is there a code to get the 35% off??  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!


    Matt left a comment on 12/29/2011 at 3:07 PM:

    After needing a new navy blazer for the better part of two years, I bought this exact one today. Norman Hilton now 35% off. I don’t believe I’ve seen it drop more, so get on that.


    AGW left a comment on 12/28/2011 at 2:05 AM:

    UP’ers- Pinstripe navy blazer v. navy blazer…. your take?


    Donovan Addler left a comment on 12/19/2011 at 2:37 AM:

    This is an absolute killer blazer. www.Theliverygoods.com has a Navy Brooks Brothers blazer for a great price! check it out.


    aiden left a comment on 12/15/2011 at 2:23 AM:

    where can u find that tie i love it pls help me castleberry


    Robert left a comment on 12/7/2011 at 3:46 PM:

    Great jacket. Even better styling and photo. Will be pinning to my inspiration board.


    Makaga left a comment on 12/7/2011 at 10:37 AM:

    Thank you for the headsup about this blue blazer.  Mine is getting a bit raggedy and this one sure looks good!


    Brian E left a comment on 12/5/2011 at 3:16 PM:

    Did this blazer come with four-button sleeves, or did you add more when you replaced them?  Most 3/2 sacks I’ve seen come with only two widely spaced buttons on the sleeves.  I think it makes it that much more distinctive.


    Walker left a comment on 12/3/2011 at 12:16 PM:

    Wonderful blazer and Fox Head button combo. Really impressed with the selection at Sir Jack’s.

    Keeping with the fox theme: http://www.sirjacks.com/knot-belt-co-fox-head-horn-d-ring-belt/


    emjkmj left a comment on 12/3/2011 at 7:28 AM:

    @Rake, Thanks.  A little shocked at the retail difference though.


    Rake left a comment on 12/3/2011 at 5:57 AM:

    @emjkmj, Ben Silver does indeed source its buttons from Benson and Clegg - the vast majority of them, anyway. I am unsure of where the custom buttons are sourced from.


    M Arthur left a comment on 12/2/2011 at 10:46 PM:

    Doesn’t get any more prep than this.  The foundation of any wardrobe.


    emjkmj left a comment on 12/2/2011 at 9:37 PM:

    @AEV, I would not be surprised of Ben Silver sourced their buttons from Benson & Clegg.  The fox head buttons are identical.  I know Ben Silver sources a lot of items in England.  Also, knowing how value driven you are, The Benson & Clegg are $100 and the Ben Silver are $225.


    Mike E. left a comment on 12/2/2011 at 7:03 PM:

    The blazer looks great.  Do you know if it’s fully canvassed?


    khordkutta left a comment on 12/2/2011 at 5:41 PM:

    Outstanding looking blazer, niice touch with the buttons, good looking combo.


    Shawn left a comment on 12/2/2011 at 3:51 PM:

    Tip of the hat sir.


    AEV left a comment on 12/2/2011 at 3:38 PM:

    Ben Silver has a wide range of blazer buttons too…and, I believe, will even custom make them for an add’l fee.


    CJG left a comment on 12/2/2011 at 3:04 PM:

    Workhorse indeed.


    Scott left a comment on 12/2/2011 at 3:04 PM:

    Wonderful highlight of an indispensable classic.  Well done.


    Chris left a comment on 12/2/2011 at 2:57 PM:

    Love it!
    Who, may I ask, is YOUR tailor Mr. Castleberry? Fingers crossed he is near my hood (Nolita)

    Cheers,
    Chris


    Blevins left a comment on 12/2/2011 at 2:50 PM:

    Benson and Clegg hold a royal warrant for their supply of buttons and badges and are possibly the best source of buttons on the planet.


    AEV left a comment on 12/2/2011 at 2:21 PM:

    Great combo - looks to be a terrific blazer.


    image

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