Suit Yourself: Tyler
“You never forget your first suit,” David Coggins muses after a couple of beers late one weeknight—which night, exactly, I don’t recall off-hand. But he’s right. You graduated in that suit, landed the job in that suit, got the girl in that suit...you became a man in that suit.
Rugby gets that. This spring marks the introduction to Rugby’s tropical wool, linen/silk/wool blend and cotton gabardine suiting. Though rendered in classic trad hues and patterns, Ralph Lauren fabricated an Italian silhouette. Lauren’s own Italian tailor hand cut the patterns, creating a suppressed waist, natural shoulder, fully canvassed jacket that hugs incredibly well off the rack.
This week, presented by Rugby* and styled by me, features five creatives making it in New York City. They paid a visit to the University Rugby shop and then I tagged along on their commutes, inside their homes and into their favorite greasy spoons to not only show how to look put together in a suit, but how to break it apart. You never forget your first suit—better make it tops.
When Tyler isn’t making things with his hands at Parsons School of Design, he’s surfing and working at Brooklyn's Mollusk Surf Shop. Here he pairs the linen/silk/wool blend herringbone jacket with a pair of Bermuda length cut-offs (sitting 1” above the knee). It’s practically my semi-formal summer uniform. Linen pocket square nonchalantly stuffed, spread collar in lieu of the expected preppy button down, and no socks keep things loose.
My natural tendency is to all too often layer three patterns in an array of natural fabrics (linen, wool, cotton, silk, etc) to achieve a palette with some depth and scale. Because the repp stripe, mini-gingham check and herringbone’s proportions vary, it works.
Pennies in your loafers is tongue-in-cheek of course and certainly not for everyone, but if you do save them (I rarely leave home without them), opt for actual copper pennies prior to the ’83 minting.
In Rugby’s navy stripe tropical wool suit, a bright gingham shirt with a muted madras tie plays down the gravity of the three-piece ensemble. Madras, in moderation, makes for a subtle summer go-to-hell disposition against classic hues of navy or gray. When adopting cuffs, 1 3/4” is the Ivy standard.
It’s for the very reason that a stodgy Brooks Brothers salesman warned me to never pin a button down collar that I do. The devil is in the details, certainly, but I’d argue so much more your personal style. Because the stripe is subtle, you can break the navy jacket apart with a dark jean for a high/low approach to your weekend.
*In its sponsorship of this feature, Rugby provided financial compensation, in addition to the product in question, for my photography services and opinions. The entire wardrobe is provided by Rugby save a few instances in which the subjects wore their own pieces.
left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 12:49 PM:
i’ve forgone the penny in the loafer and now stuff a full $5 dollar bill into the penny slot.
www.postmoderngentleman.com
left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 6:18 AM:
This is one of the best posts i’ve seen on this site, really liked the first chap and the cut of his trousers, and especially his shoes.
A wonderful read,
Best,
Christian
www.stylesage.co.uk
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 10:53 PM:
Great Piece FEC…cheers, Keep up the good work.
J. P. Lee
read, know, inspire
http://preplee.com
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 7:39 PM:
Blazers and jeans worn together is nice, specially with the brass button. if you guys ever get to travel to Milan you’ll see how this chaps out there make it happen!
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 7:31 PM:
I freely admit that I do not wear a blazer and a tie every time I go a beach or BBQ, but I have, in all honesty, done both. The circumstances called for it and if I had found myself overdressed, I could always turn the tie into a dashing pocket square in two shakes.
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 6:53 PM:
Great pics. I got 2 of the S11 sport coats from Rugby (including the one in the shorts pic) and they are truly great. They are made by Raffaele Caruso who also does the RL Blue Label line. Rugby offers a Student Union 15% discount so take that into consideration. Of course I couldnt justify the suits, especially since they werent offered in Short sizes. I was kinda shocked to see the sticker price on the Spring suits/coats as well so I only opted for my 2 favorites (the tan/black herringbones) and might pick the suits up when they go on sale (with the 15% student discount). I think Tyler pulls the looks off great and the clothes look/fit great. Great post.
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 6:04 PM:
These images are absolutely beautiful - looking forward to seeing the rest of the pictures this week!
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 4:37 PM:
@ T Fo - Yes, the loafers in the pics are RL. Allen Edmonds makes a great pair of leather soled loafers; a great style of theirs is called Randolph and they’re a couple hundred cheaper than the RL ones. Bass, while no longer made in ME, also makes straight forward and affordable leather soled loafers.
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 4:24 PM:
FEC, I was just at the Rugby store in NYC Friday, great collection they have there.
Where are those loafers from? Are they RL? And if so does anyone know a cheaper pair with a similar look? (no beefroll, leather bottom)
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 3:55 PM:
I will never understand the animosity towards shorts with a blazer. In the four years I spent going to school in Boston, it was one of my favorite sartorial discoveries. As soon as the weather warms up north of the border, I plan on rocking it all summer long. My personal favorite combination is mint green shorts, white OCBD, navy blazer, madras tie. It is smart casual and works for the beach, a cookout, even the golf course/country club, depending on the day.
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 3:33 PM:
Well done FEC!!! Shorts & blazer, love the colors, great look!!!
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 12:05 PM:
I love everything you post. And this is in my neighborhood! Brooklyn’s usually overlooked! I just have to respond that in my opinion any young person living and working in the city knows that just being able to do both those on your own two feet is making it. Being able to do that and keep true to your style, that’s luxe.
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 11:58 AM:
Todays post is one of my favorites in a long time; its a very strong opener for the week, and am looking forward to reading; and the summer of 11!
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 11:00 AM:
Well done, Fred. I think some New Yorkers, though, wouldn’t consider “making it” to be going to school and working at a surf shop.
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 10:02 AM:
wish Rugby hadn’t dumped their Charlottesville store…would love to check some of these out in person!
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 9:33 AM:
Yes!! a spotlight on RUGBY…and with that I am satisfied. I actually picked up many spring items during the Spring preview at my local RUGBY store. So I’m all set for the nice weather to really roll in. Awesome Job FEC!
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 9:07 AM:
Yeah Tyler!! Very talented kid. FEC, you must pay a visit to Bellport this summer. I’d be happy to help show you around.
left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 7:31 AM:
Great shoot FEC. Love the first look with the green shorts and blazer. My type of go-to-hell. I’ll certainly use that look as inspiration for my summer wardrobe. Spring is on it’s way here in Sweden, but it’s not quite here yet, so no shorts for at least a month, maybe two, so plenty of time to work on said wardrobe… Can’t wait for spring!
Elizabeth V. left a comment on 4/11/2011 at 4:31 PM:
I adore the breakfast photo—the gingham shirt sets off the blues and greens so well! The jeans and blazer look is great as well.