• Suit Yourself: Brian

    Style  

    “You never forget your first suit,” David Coggins muses after a couple of beers late one weeknight—which night, exactly, I don’t recall off-hand. But he’s right. You graduated in that suit, landed the job in that suit, got the girl in that suit...you became a man in that suit.

    Rugby gets that. This spring marks the introduction to Rugby’s tropical wool, linen/silk/wool blend and cotton gabardine suiting. Though rendered in classic trad hues and patterns, Ralph Lauren fabricated an Italian silhouette. Lauren’s own Italian tailor hand cut the patterns, creating a suppressed waist, natural shoulder, fully canvassed jacket that hugs incredibly well off the rack.

    This week, presented by Rugby* and styled by me, features five creatives making it in New York City. They paid a visit to the University Rugby shop and then I tagged along on their commutes, inside their homes and into their favorite greasy spoons to not only show how to look put together in a suit, but how to break it apart. You never forget your first suit—better make it tops.

    There is something physically nostalgic about a book—a book in whose pages you can actually flip beneath the pad of your thumb. There is even something more nostalgic about a handmade book. Brian thinks so too. He makes them painstakingly by hand—imperfections and all—in small runs for clients looking for something unique. On a sun drenched afternoon, in his gray tropical wool suit, he’s putting in some time at one of his favorite local bookstores.

    Every man’s first suit should be gray, assuming you already have a navy blazer and gray tropical trousers. It will take you to weddings, funerals and if you go with a dark charcoal, it will even take you to a black tie affair. This is Brian's first suit.

    Opt for a cuff (1 3/4”) on your gray wool trousers to the maintain their versatility for everyday wear in and out of the suit.

    Blue and white shirts, any combination like the striped button down sport shirt here, are the work horses of any man’s wardrobe. They go anywhere with everything and a man can never have too many.

    Break out the tropical wool trousers and a plaid sport shirt for an everyday semi-casual go-to staple.

    Is there a better way to ride a bike than in a tweedy plaid sport jacket? Not in Williamsburg. Brian’s meetings often take him across the Brooklyn Bridge on windy spring days. His linen/silk jacket breathes while keeping him warm enough while on his bike.

    When spring rolls around, I’m an advocate of the pink oxford cloth button down with tweedy heritage jackets like this one in a linen/silk blend. Pink not only does favors for your face after a long night but provides a softer counterpoint to the masculine hearty fabric. A cotton bandana nonchalantly stuffed into your jacket makes for a functional pocket square that says you don’t take yourself too seriously.

    Sometimes-always-never, the rule of thumb in buttoning your jacket from top to bottom, applies to your vest as well.

    *In its sponsorship of this feature, Rugby provided financial compensation, in addition to the product in question, for my photography services and opinions. The entire wardrobe is provided by Rugby save a few instances in which the subjects wore their own pieces.

    Apr 8, 2011 | Permalink (24) View/Leave Comments

    Lance left a comment on 4/17/2011 at 1:12 PM:

    Does anyone know whether Brian has a website?  I would like to see some of his handmade books.  Thanks.


    mike left a comment on 4/14/2011 at 9:28 PM:

    who makes the wingtips?


    julie left a comment on 4/14/2011 at 11:22 AM:

    you have elevated your game this week to a whole new level!  congrats on making something your own.  well done and inspiring!


    Joey Dee left a comment on 4/12/2011 at 9:48 PM:

    My favorite work this far since started I reading. I think Ali was the most inspirational, reminds me of a trad ska buddy from back in the day.


    Madison McNeill left a comment on 4/12/2011 at 11:26 AM:

    I love the photographs and clothes so much! Oh I wish for well fitted suits to become part of the every day Joe’s wardrobe.

    http://hautecoutureandwhiskey.blogspot.com


    JS left a comment on 4/11/2011 at 6:28 PM:

    Ah, but all the better with polished shoes.


    Elizabeth V. left a comment on 4/11/2011 at 4:35 PM:

    It makes my day when I see a well-dressed gent wearing brightly colored and/or striped socks. I’ve really enjoyed the work you’ve posted here this past week, too.


    Luis Alcaraz left a comment on 4/11/2011 at 10:35 AM:

    I love the clothes and amazing pictures as always. But I dont love the shoes they look to old not for my when I wear a nice suit!


    WMM left a comment on 4/11/2011 at 10:30 AM:

    May I inquire as to what brand the saddle shoes he’s sporting are?


    dan left a comment on 4/11/2011 at 9:57 AM:

    Great job this week, FEC!


    Skeeter left a comment on 4/11/2011 at 8:18 AM:

    Button-down collar + collar pin = belts + suspenders


    saprof left a comment on 4/11/2011 at 8:14 AM:

    The photos were interesting as always.

    I particularly liked the “Cat in the Hat” blue and red socks and the sign in the background of the seventh series from the top that reads “bowel”.

    I needed a good laugh today.


    StanWhtite left a comment on 4/11/2011 at 8:11 AM:

    A little unnerved by the Bowery sign which reads as “Bowel” in the photo.


    Pink Socks left a comment on 4/10/2011 at 9:52 PM:

    “It will take you to weddings, funerals and if you go with a dark charcoal, it will even take you to a black tie affair.”
    FEC - is that a quote of Sid Mashburn for his Bearings video? Enjoying the photographs, keep up the good work.

    linenforsummertweedforwinter.tumblr.com


    bunny left a comment on 4/10/2011 at 4:06 PM:

    beautiful work this week. ali was my fave with the pretty plaid tie and lavender shirt. and the ‘78 superman vs. muhammad ali book-as-backround-art. i’d buy an unabashedly prep photography coffee table book too. happy birthday, fred! sounds like you’ll have an amazing year… (from holiday mathis) today’s birthday - april 10. you’ll make sweeping decisions over the next 10 weeks, and you may even change the main direction you want your life to take. your experience in a relationship will be fun, and it also will help you gain wisdom and maturity. this summer features a magnificent collaboration. your talent gets major recognition. aquarius and capricorn people adore you. your lucky numbers are: 50, 33, 25, 15 and 48.


    Kiel James Patrick left a comment on 4/9/2011 at 11:08 PM:

    Wonderful week.  You talented/creative young man, you.  Coffee table UP photography book soon?  New lobster trap table’s looking a little bare.


    pmg left a comment on 4/9/2011 at 4:56 PM:

    Nice pics.


    Tito left a comment on 4/9/2011 at 11:47 AM:

    Brian is KILLING IT!
    Specially with that tweed combo, he gave me some ideas for the Big Apple Tweed Fall Ride.
    Fred I think you got the muscle to start branding your on line. I enjoyed my self this week with the photograph and of curse with the LEX LUGER of comments AEV!

    GOD Bless all of you guys and be safe….


    ERIII left a comment on 4/9/2011 at 10:10 AM:

    I think i found my new pink oxford, love the tennis tie. Once again, great job FEC!!! I thank you and Rugby for a week of beautiful pictures, tons of fresh “how to’s” and sparking interesting conversations. You’ve captured a side of Rugby i had yet to see. Great job guys, cheers!!!


    AEV left a comment on 4/9/2011 at 9:10 AM:

    Solid week - great photography Fred. Would I ever wear a brown tweed vest, brown blazer, brown casual pants, and brown, destroyed boots with a bow tie? No, of course not. A button down oxford shirt with the buttons undone and a collar pin? No sir - it’s one of the silliest things I’ve actually ever seen. But, all that being said, what you did this week deserves kudos and respect. Bravo.


    AERCO left a comment on 4/9/2011 at 8:49 AM:

    I’ve really enjoyed this feature a lot


    Caron left a comment on 4/9/2011 at 8:45 AM:

    So fab! As usual.


    HLN left a comment on 4/9/2011 at 7:48 AM:

    I really like these photos.


    teversole left a comment on 4/8/2011 at 10:16 PM:

    There’s that elusive Linen Plaid sport coat and vest that escaped me this season. Sigh. I always stayed away from pink oxfords but finally gave in. Now I have 8. It somehow became my favorite color and seems to go with so many things.


    image

  • Suit Yourself: Ali

    Style  

    “You never forget your first suit,” David Coggins muses after a couple of beers late one weeknight—which night, exactly, I don’t recall off-hand. But he’s right. You graduated in that suit, landed the job in that suit, got the girl in that suit...you became a man in that suit.

    Rugby gets that. This spring marks the introduction to Rugby’s tropical wool, linen/silk/wool blend and cotton gabardine suiting. Though rendered in classic trad hues and patterns, Ralph Lauren fabricated an Italian silhouette. Lauren’s own Italian tailor hand cut the patterns, creating a suppressed waist, natural shoulder, fully canvassed jacket that hugs incredibly well off the rack.

    This week, presented by Rugby* and styled by me, features five creatives making it in New York City. They paid a visit to the University Rugby shop and then I tagged along on their commutes, inside their homes and into their favorite greasy spoons to not only show how to look put together in a suit, but how to break it apart. You never forget your first suit—better make it tops.

    Ali, under the moniker A Noble Savage, is a bit of a kaleidoscopic creative. His Brooklyn loft is a unique space doubling as a showroom for a constantly re-imagined collection of inspirational objects ranging from fashion to found art, furniture and books. In his linen Glen plaid jacket, he’s fastening horse bits on some antique shoe lasts for his latest conceptual installation. The jeans, a sort of homage to Warhol’s summers spent painting in fields of The Hamptons, are a window into his person, his work and his style.

    Vintage Gucci horse bit loafers are the preppy pinnacle of the horse bit variety. Though paint splattered, Ali’s utter disregard for them is precisely the disposition in which they were adopted by the prep-set years ago.

    Not everyone can pull off a bow tie simply because the majority of men don’t know how to tie one. I wear them that much more because of that pitiful fact. Tucker Carlson, who’s consistently worn bow ties since childhood, equated it to “a middle finger protruding from your neck.” And that’s exactly the air in which you don one.

    If a man could only own one belt for the rest of his life, the brown leather slide belt with engine turn buckle would have to be it. Dress it up, dress it down, it just works.

    A signet ring, the quintessential preppy accessory, is one of the only pieces of hand jewelry that a man can pull off outside of his wedding band.

    Originally worn at Eton, the club collar garners its name from other men wanting to be seen as part of this exclusive club. Ali subverts the scholarly rope-striped navy suit with a club collar oxford, bright argyle sock and crocodile John Lobb tassel loafers.

    *In its sponsorship of this feature, Rugby provided financial compensation, in addition to the product in question, for my photography services and opinions. The entire wardrobe is provided by Rugby save a few instances in which the subjects wore their own pieces.

    Apr 7, 2011 | Permalink (11) View/Leave Comments

    C.L. Young left a comment on 9/30/2012 at 2:44 AM:

    @J—Maybe that’s why people stare at me when I wear my bowties!


    Chris Callis left a comment on 4/9/2011 at 12:41 PM:

    Love the paint-splattered jeans. Probably my favorite piece for this coming summer. I love the prospect of going up into the art studio with a pair of beat up Levi’s and making a day of it. Well done with this week, Fred—plenty of inspiring content.


    dspirlin@yahoo.com left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 11:36 PM:

    Best feature yet.  Wow, looks like Rugby has FINALLY got it ! This model exudes the true essence of Tocdays Renaissance Man. Someone who in all aspects of his life exudes without words being spoken…THAT HE HAS ARRIVED! Great job Ali.


    ERIII left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 10:35 PM:

    Excellent work FEC!!! Love it!!!


    Joey Dee left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 10:28 PM:

    Whats nicer than an Italian made suit? Wait—nothing. I could see concern with Rugby pieces, if it was covered in graphic prints like an ed hardy or somethinng like that; but one could actually leave the house looking swell in a Rugby suit.
    As for the jeans I believe that may be ‘real’ paint.
    Great work on the photos, love hiw he ties the bowtie.


    chris W. left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 5:06 PM:

    Favorite thus far!


    Glenn left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 4:09 PM:

    Total Home run! Best post yet!


    J left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 2:48 PM:

    That Tucker Carlson, such a bad-ass! I’ve always thought bow ties looked better on guys you wouldn’t expect to be wearing one—like black dudes.


    teversole left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 2:00 PM:

    Love the Glen Plaid sport coat. It and the Linen Plaid were my favorite but my size was gone in a day. Something to be said about these overpriced pieces, they sure sold out in a hurry!


    Carlos left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 1:53 PM:

    Your photographs are getting better and better. You’re doing a great job. I didn’t agree with men tapering their pants and hemming them way above the ankle… but I guess if you can’t beat em, join em. I sent a couple of my pants to the tailor and am wearing my first pair as we speak. Vintage washed blue Brooks Brothers pants.

    KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!


    Alton McDowell left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 1:46 PM:

    Great pics, the best of the week so far


    image

  • Suit Yourself: Foxley

    Style  

    “You never forget your first suit,” David Coggins muses after a couple of beers late one weeknight—which night, exactly, I don’t recall off-hand. But he’s right. You graduated in that suit, landed the job in that suit, got the girl in that suit...you became a man in that suit.

    Rugby gets that. This spring marks the introduction to Rugby’s tropical wool, linen/silk/wool blend and cotton gabardine suiting. Though rendered in classic trad hues and patterns, Ralph Lauren fabricated an Italian silhouette. Lauren’s own Italian tailor hand cut the patterns, creating a suppressed waist, natural shoulder, fully canvassed jacket that hugs incredibly well off the rack.

    This week, presented by Rugby* and styled by me, features five creatives making it in New York City. They paid a visit to the University Rugby shop and then I tagged along on their commutes, inside their homes and into their favorite greasy spoons to not only show how to look put together in a suit, but how to break it apart. You never forget your first suit—better make it tops.

    Nobody knows Graydon Carter’s schedule better than David Foxley. As the assistant to the editor of Vanity Fair, the guy is no stranger to a suit. From his West Village garden apartment, Foxley is tying up the afternoon’s loose ends in his cotton gabardine suit. It is an ideal choice for your first spring suit given it’s khaki hue and versatility in the separates.

    Trousers should be worn slightly short of the all-important shoe—and penny loafers never looked better than with a khaki cotton gab suit. A lightweight cardigan can provide additional warmth while simultaneously yielding a pop of color. The go-to-hell shade works during the week when downplayed behind the khaki jacket.

    I stuffed a bow tie into my chest pocket once when I was in a pinch and have been doing it ever since—it’s a personal style preference. Just stuff it in there and don’t think about it too much. This cotton madras plaid bow tie introduces depth while contrasting the texture and fabric of the silk knit tie.

    Foxley often ducks into La BonBonniere in the West Village for a short-stack and coffee.

    The cotton gab jacket pairs naturally with a dark rinse slim straight-leg jean. Saddle shoes keep the overall look sporty enough to stay one step ahead of his young English Bulldog, Jack.

    Plain front trousers, always. Introduce pleats and you’re not doing most guys any favors. Wear this cotton chino pant sans jacket like you would khakis. All of Rugby’s trousers provide the option for braces...use them occasionally.

    *In its sponsorship of this feature, Rugby provided financial compensation, in addition to the product in question, for my photography services and opinions. The entire wardrobe is provided by Rugby save a few instances in which the subjects wore their own pieces.

    Apr 6, 2011 | Permalink (14) View/Leave Comments

    nelson left a comment on 4/25/2011 at 1:35 AM:

    wow he pulls off those looks effortlessly.
    if i did it, i would look too try hard.


    .A.S. left a comment on 4/14/2011 at 3:19 PM:

    Anyone know the details on those saddle shoes he’s wearing?


    Caroline Fontenot left a comment on 4/9/2011 at 11:48 AM:

    This was probably my favorite week so far on the blog! I loved it. This post was my favorite of all, every look was just perfection. Keep it up!


    Joey Dee left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 11:02 PM:

    Is it a correct presumption that the glasses are Tom Ford? I would agree that Rugby pushes the edge of prep. I would also dare to say that there is a punk rock ‘we owe you nothing’ attitude that subtly hits you while you are reading, maybe thats what rubs the old guard commenters on here;perhaps. Great work on photography.


    pmg left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 12:39 PM:

    i used to think that only Brad Pitt could pull off the khaki suit. now i see theres hope for mortals yet. of course it still helps if you’re a skinny good-looking guy.
    www.postmoderngentleman.com


    OldGeorgetowner left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 8:31 AM:

    handsome man, and overall I like all the looks, they just don’t look tailored.
    I also think that stripe shirt looks cheap.  Looks like a WalMart oxford shirt.
    Certainly interesting to look at; just feels like “new prep” which is like “new money” to me.  Just my own opinion.


    Tito left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 9:13 PM:

    Well on this tumblr, there are 312 people that love Mr Foxley’s look:
    http://gqmcgee.tumblr.com/post/4388859114/courtesy-of-unabashedly-prep


    Ward left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 6:05 PM:

    I have to say, this is my favourite of the 3 so far. Love how the brown saddle shoes and denim go together.


    The Untidy Pilgrim left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 2:50 PM:

    Thank you, Messieurs Castleberry and Foxley, for showing the versatility of the khaki cotton gab suit. Well done.


    ERIII left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 11:06 AM:

    Another home run FEC!!! Foxley looks great and his “world” is real for him…


    Thomas left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 9:44 AM:

    It should be noted that these suits are made in Italy by Raffaele Caruso. $850 for a suit made by a reputable Italian designer is really not that absurd. Much better than the $1800 Ralph Lauren Black Label suits made by the very same designer. At half the price, some might say you’re getting a pretty good deal. Add in the 15% student discount and the price is knocked down to $722.


    Chip left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 9:09 AM:

    Anyone know where his glasses are from?


    Best left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 7:52 AM:

    Cast love the short trousers to showcase the pennies. I would totally rock to work a bow tie as a pocket square with the knit tie, absolutely brilliant, props to your stylist - it doesn’t feel forced or over thought at all. The sweater under a cotton, warm weather suit with no sock works for this fake spring weather in New York right now - spot on. As always you capture the moment in your shots. Like.


    Tito left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 7:21 AM:

    Wow everything on Mr Foxley fits excellent!
    I’m definitely going to check on that made in Italy Khaki jacket. I’m really enjoying the way everything’s put together.
    Fred I’m looking forward to see you modeling some of this great outfits sir….


    image

  • Suit Yourself: David

    Style  

    “You never forget your first suit,” David Coggins muses after a couple of beers late one weeknight—which night, exactly, I don’t recall off-hand. But he’s right. You graduated in that suit, landed the job in that suit, got the girl in that suit...you became a man in that suit.

    Rugby gets that. This spring marks the introduction to Rugby’s tropical wool, linen/silk/wool blend and cotton gabardine suiting. Though rendered in classic trad hues and patterns, Ralph Lauren fabricated an Italian silhouette. Lauren’s own Italian tailor hand cut the patterns, creating a suppressed waist, natural shoulder, fully canvassed jacket that hugs incredibly well off the rack.

    This week, presented by Rugby* and styled by me, features five creatives making it in New York City. They paid a visit to the University Rugby shop and then I tagged along on their commutes, inside their homes and into their favorite greasy spoons to not only show how to look put together in a suit, but how to break it apart. You never forget your first suit—better make it tops.

    As a writer, David’s eclectic collection of literature scattered about his West Village apartment wouldn’t seem unexpected; however, his love for orange Penguin books could. He’s meticulous about them too—arranging and organizing them by color. In his light drenched living space, David is as comfortable in his gray stripe tropical wool suit as he is with a pen in his hand given the three-piece tends to lend itself to more sophisticated characters.

    David and I share an affinity for the navy silk knit tie. It is, hands down, the tie I knot up the most. The luxurious fabric and texture introduce a quiet sophistication and works with almost everything.

    While you won’t be able to wear the striped jacket separately, easily throw on a vintage cardigan or sweater over your trousers for a relaxed air.

    I really love floral print silk ties for spring. The smattering of preppy florets introduces a softer counterpoint to masculine patterns and fabrics such as this linen/silk/wool blend herringbone. The unfastened button-down collar is something peculiar to David that I nonchalantly adopt occasionally. Know the rules, then explore how to conservatively veer from them to suit your personality.

    White bucks are a summer staple. Wear them like you wear any other shoe—with jeans, with a suit, with khakis, with seersucker...you get the idea. Clean them up at the beginning of the season and then forget about it until next year. The dirtier the better.

    *In its sponsorship of this feature, Rugby provided financial compensation, in addition to the product in question, for my photography services and opinions. The entire wardrobe is provided by Rugby save a few instances in which the subjects wore their own pieces.

    Apr 5, 2011 | Permalink (15) View/Leave Comments

    JMW left a comment on 10/7/2011 at 10:34 AM:

    Gee whiz he’s handsome! I love a smart, articulate, classically stylish man.


    pmg left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 12:46 PM:

    i both loathe and envy this man. What kind of writer can afford to live the West Village?? I’m clearly in the wrong kind of writing biz. Then again my main purview is writing slash fiction featuring Bablyon 5 characters…
    www.postmoderngentleman.com


    A Super Dilettante left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 6:58 AM:

    It’s always nice to see a man who has got a book of Gombrich’s A Story of Art on his desk. It tells so much about his taste, education, breeding and culture. I like the idea of featuring just one man in his interior - being himself. It’s like a little story or a glimpse into someone’s life and style. Thanks.


    Andrew left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 1:14 PM:

    Collars left un-buttoned and all that can be little details which reflect a guy’s personality… until everybody else starts doing the same thing. Then it’s not detail; it’s effected, which is the opposite of style.


    saprof left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 4:40 AM:

    As a 40ish college prof, two comments…

    Good to see an adult featured wearing something a serious adult would wear to the office for a change.

    Good to see something that that reflects my taste and wardrobe. I picked up an almost identical gold linen/silk/wool herringbone Barbour jacket during the summer sales in Paris at the Galeries Lafayette for about $180. With Rugby promoting the same item, I feel I am on the right track in at least one area of daily dress.   

    Nice work.


    Dave left a comment on 4/5/2011 at 8:35 PM:

    Dig it all…  Are his white bucks Ralph Lauren or some other brand?  Been eyeing a pair myself and really like the sole on those in particular.


    ERIII left a comment on 4/5/2011 at 5:02 PM:

    FEC your eye is impeccable!!! Great work!!!


    atieaday left a comment on 4/5/2011 at 3:36 PM:

    Love these photos.  Even though it may be a promotional shot, which I dont have a problem with, it all looks very natural.  I love the mixture/fine line of sloppy vs. well dressed.  Great photos


    Richard Ross left a comment on 4/5/2011 at 3:14 PM:

    Could you post a full size of those OCBDs. I would love to make that my phone background.


    SSI left a comment on 4/5/2011 at 9:20 AM:

    Now that was a great series of photos.  I’m jealous of every piece included, as well as the great furniture in this bloke’s apartment.  Still no doubt that Rugby’s suits are way overpriced - and Rugby is going to really hate to hear this - but the pics provide great ideas for finding comparable pieces elsewhere and working towards a similar ensemble which is way more fun than just dropping a mortgage payment to buy it outright.


    HLN left a comment on 4/5/2011 at 8:56 AM:

    Some really nice photos.  However, doesn’t really look like a “young” creative to me.


    Erik C. Nelson left a comment on 4/5/2011 at 7:46 AM:

    I really enjoyed this post.  I love seeing the ways in which a person’s style extends into their living space.  Mr. Coggins has a great apartment and it’s very well shot.  One always wonders how the folks in your Dress Code live, this is a little taste.  I have no problem with the fact that it’s a paid advert.  If you trust the style and integrity of this site I see no reason to question it just because a little money is involved.  Money isn’t the root of all evil, bad taste is….


    AEV left a comment on 4/5/2011 at 7:39 AM:

    @Sam - nearly identical floral pattern ties are sold by a range of retailers, from Lands End (style is called “diamond petal”, $24.99) to J. Press (“silk printed flower”, in a range of colors, $59.50) to Brooks Bros. (“woven flower”, “spaced medallion”, “alternating flower”...etc., $79.50)...


    Sam left a comment on 4/5/2011 at 7:30 AM:

    I see now that the tie is, in fact Rugby, though it is not available on their website.


    Sam left a comment on 4/5/2011 at 7:15 AM:

    Great spread, Fred! Question - where does the floral tie come from?


    image

  • Suit Yourself: Tyler

    Style  

    “You never forget your first suit,” David Coggins muses after a couple of beers late one weeknight—which night, exactly, I don’t recall off-hand. But he’s right. You graduated in that suit, landed the job in that suit, got the girl in that suit...you became a man in that suit.

    Rugby gets that. This spring marks the introduction to Rugby’s tropical wool, linen/silk/wool blend and cotton gabardine suiting. Though rendered in classic trad hues and patterns, Ralph Lauren fabricated an Italian silhouette. Lauren’s own Italian tailor hand cut the patterns, creating a suppressed waist, natural shoulder, fully canvassed jacket that hugs incredibly well off the rack.

    This week, presented by Rugby* and styled by me, features five creatives making it in New York City. They paid a visit to the University Rugby shop and then I tagged along on their commutes, inside their homes and into their favorite greasy spoons to not only show how to look put together in a suit, but how to break it apart. You never forget your first suit—better make it tops.

    When Tyler isn’t making things with his hands at Parsons School of Design, he’s surfing and working at Brooklyn's Mollusk Surf Shop. Here he pairs the linen/silk/wool blend herringbone jacket with a pair of Bermuda length cut-offs (sitting 1” above the knee). It’s practically my semi-formal summer uniform. Linen pocket square nonchalantly stuffed, spread collar in lieu of the expected preppy button down, and no socks keep things loose.

    My natural tendency is to all too often layer three patterns in an array of natural fabrics (linen, wool, cotton, silk, etc) to achieve a palette with some depth and scale. Because the repp stripe, mini-gingham check and herringbone’s proportions vary, it works.

    Pennies in your loafers is tongue-in-cheek of course and certainly not for everyone, but if you do save them (I rarely leave home without them), opt for actual copper pennies prior to the ’83 minting.

    In Rugby’s navy stripe tropical wool suit, a bright gingham shirt with a muted madras tie plays down the gravity of the three-piece ensemble. Madras, in moderation, makes for a subtle summer go-to-hell disposition against classic hues of navy or gray. When adopting cuffs, 1 3/4” is the Ivy standard.

    It’s for the very reason that a stodgy Brooks Brothers salesman warned me to never pin a button down collar that I do. The devil is in the details, certainly, but I’d argue so much more your personal style. Because the stripe is subtle, you can break the navy jacket apart with a dark jean for a high/low approach to your weekend.

    *In its sponsorship of this feature, Rugby provided financial compensation, in addition to the product in question, for my photography services and opinions. The entire wardrobe is provided by Rugby save a few instances in which the subjects wore their own pieces.

    Apr 4, 2011 | Permalink (21) View/Leave Comments

    Elizabeth V. left a comment on 4/11/2011 at 4:31 PM:

    I adore the breakfast photo—the gingham shirt sets off the blues and greens so well! The jeans and blazer look is great as well.


    John-David left a comment on 4/9/2011 at 4:55 PM:

    makes me want to go shopping. 
    Good job!!!


    pmg left a comment on 4/7/2011 at 12:49 PM:

    i’ve forgone the penny in the loafer and now stuff a full $5 dollar bill into the penny slot.
    www.postmoderngentleman.com


    Katherine left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 5:19 PM:

    Brilliant work! Keep it up! :)


    Christian left a comment on 4/6/2011 at 6:18 AM:

    This is one of the best posts i’ve seen on this site, really liked the first chap and the cut of his trousers, and especially his shoes.

    A wonderful read,

    Best,

    Christian
    www.stylesage.co.uk


    preplee left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 10:53 PM:

    Great Piece FEC…cheers, Keep up the good work.

    J. P. Lee

    read, know, inspire

    http://preplee.com


    Tito left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 7:39 PM:

    Blazers and jeans worn together is nice, specially with the brass button. if you guys ever get to travel to Milan you’ll see how this chaps out there make it happen!


    JMH left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 7:31 PM:

    I freely admit that I do not wear a blazer and a tie every time I go a beach or BBQ, but I have, in all honesty, done both.  The circumstances called for it and if I had found myself overdressed, I could always turn the tie into a dashing pocket square in two shakes.


    teversole left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 6:53 PM:

    Great pics. I got 2 of the S11 sport coats from Rugby (including the one in the shorts pic) and they are truly great. They are made by Raffaele Caruso who also does the RL Blue Label line. Rugby offers a Student Union 15% discount so take that into consideration. Of course I couldnt justify the suits, especially since they werent offered in Short sizes. I was kinda shocked to see the sticker price on the Spring suits/coats as well so I only opted for my 2 favorites (the tan/black herringbones) and might pick the suits up when they go on sale (with the 15% student discount). I think Tyler pulls the looks off great and the clothes look/fit great. Great post.


    Andrea left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 6:04 PM:

    These images are absolutely beautiful - looking forward to seeing the rest of the pictures this week!


    AEV left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 4:37 PM:

    @ T Fo - Yes, the loafers in the pics are RL. Allen Edmonds makes a great pair of leather soled loafers; a great style of theirs is called Randolph and they’re a couple hundred cheaper than the RL ones. Bass, while no longer made in ME, also makes straight forward and affordable leather soled loafers.


    T FO left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 4:24 PM:

    FEC, I was just at the Rugby store in NYC Friday, great collection they have there.

    Where are those loafers from? Are they RL? And if so does anyone know a cheaper pair with a similar look? (no beefroll, leather bottom)


    JMH left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 3:55 PM:

    I will never understand the animosity towards shorts with a blazer.  In the four years I spent going to school in Boston, it was one of my favorite sartorial discoveries.  As soon as the weather warms up north of the border, I plan on rocking it all summer long.  My personal favorite combination is mint green shorts, white OCBD, navy blazer, madras tie.  It is smart casual and works for the beach, a cookout, even the golf course/country club, depending on the day.


    ERIII left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 3:33 PM:

    Well done FEC!!! Shorts & blazer, love the colors, great look!!!


    Rowboats left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 12:05 PM:

    I love everything you post. And this is in my neighborhood! Brooklyn’s usually overlooked! I just have to respond that in my opinion any young person living and working in the city knows that just being able to do both those on your own two feet is making it. Being able to do that and keep true to your style, that’s luxe.


    Joey Dee left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 11:58 AM:

    Todays post is one of my favorites in a long time; its a very strong opener for the week, and am looking forward to reading; and the summer of 11!


    Chenners left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 11:00 AM:

    Well done, Fred. I think some New Yorkers, though, wouldn’t consider “making it” to be going to school and working at a surf shop.


    dan left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 10:02 AM:

    wish Rugby hadn’t dumped their Charlottesville store…would love to check some of these out in person!


    Bernard Odenwald left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 9:33 AM:

    Yes!! a spotlight on RUGBY…and with that I am satisfied. I actually picked up many spring items during the Spring preview at my local RUGBY store. So I’m all set for the nice weather to really roll in. Awesome Job FEC!


    Howie left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 9:07 AM:

    Yeah Tyler!! Very talented kid. FEC, you must pay a visit to Bellport this summer. I’d be happy to help show you around.


    BVA left a comment on 4/4/2011 at 7:31 AM:

    Great shoot FEC. Love the first look with the green shorts and blazer. My type of go-to-hell. I’ll certainly use that look as inspiration for my summer wardrobe. Spring is on it’s way here in Sweden, but it’s not quite here yet, so no shorts for at least a month, maybe two, so plenty of time to work on said wardrobe… Can’t wait for spring!


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