Unabashedly Prep

  • Going Brogue, Not Broke

    Style | Prep Essentials  

    Can’t muster the $600 for brand new wingtips? A used pair can tide you over until you’re ready to splurge. Give them a good shine and outfit them with cedar shoe trees (because the last guy probably didn’t). I grabbed these Cole Haan wingtips for $20 at a little thrift store called eBay. Wear them with jeans and your favorite button down oxford—the intrinsic character of your new-to-you kick-around brogues will take care of the rest.

    Buy used and finish what the other guy started

    Feb 19, 2010 | Permalink | (25) View Comments or Pen Your Own

    gioforeal left a comment on 3/6/2010 at 10:41 PM:

    I procured a gently used pair of black A.E. wingtips on Ebay last winter for about $20 and rocked ‘em with my H&M jeans ever since,I get tons of comments ,some complimentary and some less so….this Winter I spent $18 on English heels,and now they look really good,also due to the fact I insist on Woodlore shoe trees and Meltonian shoe cream-holla!


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 2/23/2010 at 12:14 PM:

    KGS—I suppose I could re-craft these brogues. I guess it’s just my prerogative, but I just simply don’t want to…it might detract from the luster of the $20 purchase.  I like the pair “as is” and am not concerned with the previous owner’s sweat on the inside, etc.  I’m going to keep scrimping and saving for a pair by Sid Mashburn.


    nerdyCOOL.com left a comment on 2/23/2010 at 8:41 AM:

    @KGS - I would definitely take my shoes in to AE to get redone. I’m actually wearing a pair of AE McCallisters I bought for $20 today. I’ll be sending them in to get the full treatment.

    It’s definitely a deal.


    Pickles & Coffee left a comment on 2/22/2010 at 10:04 PM:

    I am sooooo jealous.. not only are they really dope… like perfect. but 20$ i thought i was supercool pickin up some shoes for 7$, but they werent nearly as cool as those


    www.picklesandcoffee.com


    Jeff Sipper left a comment on 2/22/2010 at 3:34 PM:

    Nice find!  I picked up a pair of Nettleton Longwigs over at Ebay… $10+Shipping http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs193.snc3/20071_277762949140_556264140_3552871_8219975_n.jpg


    KGS left a comment on 2/22/2010 at 11:05 AM:

    Lovin the brogues F.E. I actively search eBay for the same type of deals…my closet is full of half price new Allen Edmonds. Though, Ive never bought used. The whole sweat/wear issue is something I cant get over. Re-soling and getting a shine is one thing, but what would you do for the inside of the shoes? Ive though of buying AE’s on the cheap and using their recrafting services for $90. Buying $300 shoes for $25 and then recrafting to get what is ultimately a new pair of shoes (recorked, stripped and redone leather, etc.) is a deal in itself as well. Thoughts?


    Sam left a comment on 2/22/2010 at 10:28 AM:

    Just picked up a pair of cordovan florsheim wingtips on ebay - I made an ebay rss feed that automatically picks up all results for “wingtip brogue florsheim 12D vintage” so I can look through them on google reader without hassle. Ah, internet.


    Speedmaster left a comment on 2/22/2010 at 7:13 AM:

    Those are beauties, GREAT find!  wink


    kin left a comment on 2/22/2010 at 4:32 AM:

    In response to Main Line Sportsman:

    I had to make a similar defense when a friend asked me about my shoes I bought off of ebay. I told him you would buy a used luxury car that is only a few years old and well taken care off, why not shoes? Just look at this way, no one can have sex in the back of a shoe like they would in a back seat of a car.


    spoozy left a comment on 2/20/2010 at 2:58 PM:

    @ F.E. Castleberry: you´re totally right. And hell, if only i could attend a Vampire Weekend shoe…i´d even go with bare feet smile


    JRS left a comment on 2/20/2010 at 8:28 AM:

    Great shoes.  I have a pair of brown Cheaney medallion captoes that I use for exactly this reason.


    nerdyCOOL left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 3:47 PM:

    F.E. Castleberry - YES, i was so excited.


    Main Line Sportsman left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 2:59 PM:

    Unfortunately I can only exclaim: ” EEEWWWW.” I love E-Bay and thrift stores but cannot feature used shoes/foowear. I just have a visceral reaction to the notion of someone else’s shoes. I like the majority of your posts…but this one…not so much.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 2:58 PM:

    Nerdy Cool—Alden tassel loafers for under $50?  That’s a find.


    nerdyCOOL left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 2:47 PM:

    Whoa! I’m jealous, and I just put those on my eBay saved searched list.

    I’ve picked up a three pairs of Allen Edmonds and an awesome pair of Alden Tassel loafers over the past two months off of eBay (all for under $50 each), but I still haven’t found the killer brown brogues.

    What search query did you use if you don’t mind me ask.

    www.nerdycool.com


    wingtip blog left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 2:40 PM:

    Perfect.  IMO, the heart of a great wardrobe should be an old pair of brown wingtips, scruffs and all.  Buff and shine occasionally, resole when needed, but most of all - wear with love!


    Justin left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 12:11 PM:

    I bought a used pair of Allen Edmonds cognac medallion cap toes 7 years ago - they were at least 7 years old at that point - and they are by far my favorite pair.  The character inherent in their experience shines through on a daily basis.  I will continue to resole them every 3 or 4 years until they just can’t take it anymore.


    jkl left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 12:11 PM:

    Put a light aftermarket insole in them…works wonders for the fit.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 11:59 AM:

    S.N. Carpeaux—You will be getting your shoe post very soon.

    Schorsch—That first scuff is a heart breaker.  The fact that you don’t have to be concerned with scuffs with a pair like this makes them even more endearing.

    Randi—Yes, I am very envious of your find. I love those brogues on you.

    Spoozy—You make a good point.  But remember, these are brogues I can wear to a Vampire Weekend show, drip Guinness on, or scuff on a sidewalk—all without the heartbreak because I paid only $20 (that was w/shipping). Of course they don’t fit like a $600 pair of Sid Mashburns…that would be unrealistic to expect them to.  These shoes at this price point are for kicking around in…just as if you grabbed them for your grandfather’s closet.


    Christian Bourasseau left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 11:44 AM:

    Great buy! They look great.


    spoozy left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 11:15 AM:

    A really nice pair of shoes, just about the perfect age: worn, but still plenty of life in them.

    But there is one major issue you have to be aware of when buying worn shoes: normally these kind of shoes are built with a cork sole between the inner and outer leather sole. This cork sole adopts to the shape of your feet when wearing them. Saying that, it is clear that the cork sole has already adopted to another pair of feet, which might be different from yours. Hence the fit of such a shoe does not only depend on the last and width of the shoe, but on the foot-shaped cork sole, too. Lucky you if that does not cause problems - poor you if they don´t…

    Anyway, if fit is not of utmost interest to you, you can really grab a bargain…


    Randi left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 10:37 AM:

    One of my favorite vintage finds? Salvatore Ferragamo brogues for $28. Good as gold.


    Schorsch left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 10:14 AM:

    The best part?  You don’t have to care when you inevitably scuff them.  Scuffed is better than unscuffed, but it’s hard to get over that first ding on new shoes.


    S.N. Carpeaux left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 9:30 AM:

    Love them. A fabulous find that make me slightly envious. Ok, more than slightly.
    When do I get my shoe post??


    Will left a comment on 2/19/2010 at 9:28 AM:

    Great find!


  • The Schott Pea Coat

    Style | Prep Essentials  

    “Never underestimate the power of a classic. When you put on a pea coat, you’re wearing a bit of world history on your back. And whether it’s the clean lines, the simple military styling or the rugged undertones, no man looks bad in a pea coat. It can be worn with nearly everything—and it’s been around so long, it basically has been.”       —Valet

    Photographed in Dallas, TX

    It’s my favorite coat this winter. Schott’s Slim Fitting Wool Peacoat for men and Women’s Lightweight Fitted Pea Coat are a smart updated twist on their classic peacoat. Complete with metal buttons and 24 oz. Melton wool, it’s the coat all the big name designers pulled from in churning out their offerings this year.

    The term “pea coat” is believed to have stemmed from the Dutch word “pij,” meaning coarse wool. It was later referred to as a pilot’s jacket and then shortened to p-jacket before eventually morphing into the term “pea coat.”

    Schott’s heritage is a true-blue, real-deal, piece of Americana. The iconic styles produced by hand for nearly 100 years have become infused in American culture and have served as battle flags for the American spirit. As the country and the world turned its attention overseas, so did Schott. On deck, servicemen kept out the cold with Schott's classic melton wool naval pea coat. Rugged and warm, these wool coats would be produced by Schott for the US Military for the next 60 years.

    Amazing in its own right, Schott NYC (Facebook/Twitter) is still owned and run by the third and fourth generations of the Schott family who still manufacture most of their clothing in the United States. In an old brick building the classic styles that have, and will continue to, connect with the American spirit are cut and sewn by the hands of trained craftspeople. The sense of pride in country is behind every pea coat’s anchor buttons. The courage to face the uncertainty on the open road and all the freedom that comes with it, is in the hearts of the Schott family as they look towards the future.

    Dec 30, 2009 | Permalink | (12) View Comments or Pen Your Own

    stephanie McBride left a comment on 1/8/2010 at 9:23 AM:

    intriguing history behind the coat. great piece.


    Astrild left a comment on 1/2/2010 at 2:34 PM:

    You look great! And Tom, I’m not white and I like peacoats too smile


    Kasey Spain left a comment on 12/30/2009 at 11:26 PM:

    what a stud. know what looks better than that coat? your HAIR.


    Tom left a comment on 12/30/2009 at 9:26 PM:

    http://stuffwhitepeoplelike.com/2008/10/02/111-pea-coats/


    Robert I. Brown left a comment on 12/30/2009 at 8:10 PM:

    By the way, what do you shoot with?


    Ryan left a comment on 12/30/2009 at 7:54 PM:

    And the jeans look great - great fit and wash.  What brand?


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/30/2009 at 5:35 PM:

    The Boss—These pennies are Cole Haan Air Rivingtons.  I love them.  Unfortunately they are difficult to find now.


    Brittany left a comment on 12/30/2009 at 4:19 PM:

    I didn’t know the etymology of the term. Thanks for filling me in! Great blog.


    trip left a comment on 12/30/2009 at 11:23 AM:

    Interesting, I don’t think I’ve heard of metal buttons on a pea coat before.


    Skip left a comment on 12/30/2009 at 11:14 AM:

    I received an Schott 32oz for Christmas!
    Instant classic!


    The Boss left a comment on 12/30/2009 at 10:16 AM:

    Great shoes, man. What brand/model are they?


    Robert I. Brown left a comment on 12/30/2009 at 9:05 AM:

    You look great, Sir. Nice post as well.


  • Save Khaki

    Prep Essentials | Store Profiles | Top Drawer  

    David Mullen is waiting on me. I slide into the anonymous storefront adjacent to A Salt & Battery on Greenwich Avenue. He’s oxidizing some sheet metal detailing above the doorway by hand. This is how he does things. He loves details...loves working with his hands. In between a soft spoken discourse on the philosophy of fit and the misappropriated media coverage of the injustices unfolding in Darfur, I realize he’s from another generation—a generation that can literally talk shop and life until the sun sets if you hang around long enough. But David is a product guy (“This is what I’m supposed to be doing,” he riffs unpretentiously), so we get back to the pants.

    Pull on a pair of his signature khakis and it’s apparent; Save is a product-driven outfit. I could go on about details like the Hollywood waist band and the interior micro-sanding, but all you need to know is it’s the best chino I’ve ever worn. It fits and moves so well; not skinny but slim. His product is a direct reflection of himself—wrinkled, well worn, detail oriented. It’s an exceptional rendition of the beloved prep essential.

    David Mullen outside of his Greenwich Avenue store

    Photographed in New York, NY

    Save Khaki began three years ago on the notion of creating great fitting khakis (and surrounding it with all the product that compliments it) in a world where everyone’s wearing denim. Since Save Khaki’s nomination as “Best New Menswear Designer in America” earlier this year by the CFDA, they’ve opened up three stores on Broome Street, Greenwich Avenue, and Lafayette Street. On the horizon is a collaboration with Pointer brand and the launch of Save Khaki United, a sub-brand by Save Khaki offering only goods made domestically. “Everything is still within our vision of updated classics that are naive to trend; chambray shirts, wool coats, knit sweaters, some selvedge chinos and even a line of denim (no prejudice here).”

    *A week before Thanksgiving my apartment building caught fire and I lost a good bit of personal belongings. David sent over a care package of khakis, a couple sport shirts, tees, and a tote bag that arrived at a time when I had hardly any clothes to wear. This is the kind of man David is. This is the man behind the khakis.

    Dec 22, 2009 | Permalink | (11) View Comments or Pen Your Own

    KyleBarnes left a comment on 1/7/2010 at 9:24 AM:

    stellar post. perfectly depicted and gorgeous photos definitely makes me want to stop by the next time I’m in the city. Until then, thanks for the preview.


    Kate Noelle left a comment on 12/28/2009 at 11:50 AM:

    This blog post was probably the best yet… your words were so eloquently put and perfectly accented the awesome antiquity of the shop. I loved it. Way to go. And I’m happy to hear you’re experiencing the wonders of God’s unmatched provision…. may you continue to see miracles. smile


    CLD left a comment on 12/23/2009 at 1:47 PM:

    Absolutely beautiful.  The piece is great!


    The Boss left a comment on 12/23/2009 at 10:22 AM:

    I really like David’s whole ensemble in this photo. And, that is rather unfortunate regarding your predicament.  I’m sure David’s hospitality put a smile on your face, though.


    Theo Martins left a comment on 12/23/2009 at 10:18 AM:

    Brought me out of the wood works, great stuff.


    theandydunn left a comment on 12/23/2009 at 2:47 AM:

    Hey Fred.  Great post, I’m wondering where I might get a pair of these in the UK?  Will have to e-mail david.


    H. left a comment on 12/22/2009 at 7:40 PM:

    that place looks amazing.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/22/2009 at 5:38 PM:

    Pittboss12—I shoot Canon cameras (5D) and lenses (L series).


    pitboss12 left a comment on 12/22/2009 at 5:19 PM:

    I don’t always agree with the content of your posts but this one was nice.  One thing I can’t deny is that you have an eye for great images. What kind of photo equipment do you use?


    Kym left a comment on 12/22/2009 at 4:41 PM:

    Gorgeous. All. Bravo.


    L.A.S left a comment on 12/22/2009 at 4:18 PM:

    Probably my favorite UP piece ever. Well-done and I’m sorry to hear about your loss.  What David did was generous, heart-warming and speaks greatly to his character.  So often we get hung up on clothes, which is fine, but at the end of the day they are just things and this world is much bigger than things.


  • Bean Boots

    Prep Essentials  

    The duck boot is in vogue again. How can you tell? A slew of outfits from Marc Jacobs to Sears are pushing the boot this season—tweaking their own offerings of the classic, some to catastrophic proportions. For the prep-set, it matters not. We lace up our Bean Boots every year in rain, sleet and snow, regardless of whether or not GQ has given the boots their seasonal blessing. And when the chain-link tread wears smooth, L.L. Bean simply resoles them (approximately $50 including s&h)—allowing for the leather uppers to continually age with you.

    Photographed in Fort Worth, TX

    L.L. Bean has kept the look of their Bean Boot virtually the same since 1912. That’s part of the charm. It’s the bedrock of this American classic. Although the 10” and 8” boot are shown here, I prefer the 8” boot due to its similar silhouette to a regular boot. (L.L. Bean, $84). Check out how they’re made—still in Maine.

    Dec 18, 2009 | Permalink | (10) View Comments or Pen Your Own

    Abdullah left a comment on 1/16/2010 at 7:43 AM:

    These have been my go to boots for years. The originals and still the best. I like the mocs too.


    James left a comment on 12/18/2009 at 9:18 PM:

    I bought my first pair this month.  I’ve experienced rain and now I look forward to the first snow…Saturday, here I come!!


    Memphis88 left a comment on 12/18/2009 at 5:26 PM:

    They are slippery on ice but I do love mine. They are great overall.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/18/2009 at 1:08 PM:

    L.A.S—You are welcome friend. It was my pleasure.

    Kidelo—The chainlink tread has proven effective in my experience. Were you on ice perhaps?

    Mike—Just put the boots without Thinsulate or shearling on your Christmas wish list. I know it rains in Atlanta…Bean Boots would be a good excuse to keep your feet dry.

    Toad—Yes, they will repair…up to four times I believe (as long as they are able to do so without compromising the quality of the boot).


    Toad left a comment on 12/18/2009 at 10:35 AM:

    Somehow these have always felt just right.  I wasn’t aware bean would repair them though.  Thanks for the tip.


    Mike Hall left a comment on 12/18/2009 at 10:34 AM:

    I’ve always wanted a pair of these. You’ve inspired me to add these to my Christmas wish-list. Now to just find some colder weather than we have in Atlanta to make good use of them!


    Kidelo left a comment on 12/18/2009 at 10:32 AM:

    Almost bought a pair of these a few weeks ago…until I remembered the winter I spent wearing them. I spent 75% of the time in the snow on my ass—they have NO TREAD. No thanks.


    Sunday Ibok left a comment on 12/18/2009 at 9:53 AM:

    I’m totally wearing my L.L. Beans today to keep the New York artic chill out. Just ducking along.


    L.A.S left a comment on 12/18/2009 at 9:53 AM:

    This looks strangely familiar, Hahaha. Thanks again for helping me out Fred.


    Matthew left a comment on 12/18/2009 at 9:26 AM:

    Great video.  Those boots are amazing, and perfect for the end of the winter and Canadian springs.  Great blog.


  • Bean’s Norwegian Sweater

    Prep Essentials  

    Immortalized in The Official Preppy Handbook as the sweater for the prep set in the 80’s—dropped in the early 1990’s by the Maine-based outfitter—L.L. Bean reissues their Norwegian Sweater this fall to the delight of East Hampton locals and Princeton Ivy Leaguers alike. It’s popularity among the prep set was so eminent it was similar to trying to nab a copy of Take Ivy on eBay. All too often a clothier’s attempt to improve upon the classics is lackadaisical. L.L. Bean nails it though. Still expertly knit in Norway, the wide, rounded neck and signature birds-eye weave remain unchanged; however, the 80/20 poly blend of generations past has been swapped for 100-percent water-repellent wool.

    It’s worth noting that although the fit seems slightly updated, if you want a slim fit that sits closer to your body, order one size down. I typically wear a medium in most of the clothiers listed on the right, but Laurie in P.R. advised me the Norwegian still runs big. The small fits perfectly in the shoulders with just enough room for my extra-slim fit Brooks Brothers oxford underneath.

    Dec 11, 2009 | Permalink | (10) View Comments or Pen Your Own

    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/14/2009 at 10:05 AM:

    The Boss—I’d be glad to. Let me get to work on this.


    The Boss left a comment on 12/13/2009 at 11:04 AM:

    Mr. Castleberry—Do you mind posting a photo of yourself wearing it? It is a nice sweater, but perhaps you can enlighten all of us with an actual photo that showcases it’s true fit.


    Memphis88 left a comment on 12/11/2009 at 11:24 PM:

    My comment about fit was related to the countless blogs that went on about how much slimmer the new sweaters were. I also never said that the old would be better than the new. I just want them to get rid of the ballooning. Not too much to ask, really. And, I can’t order a size down because I ordered a small as it is.


    F.E. Castleberry left a comment on 12/11/2009 at 10:22 PM:

    Dear gentlemen,

    I completely understand your frustration with the fit of Bean’s Norwegian Sweater.  I am aware that it balloons out right above the waist; however, this is minimized if you would just order a size down.

    Some of you believe that purchasing the original sweater will fit better.  Have you actually worn the original sweater before?  It’s fit is awkward by today’s standards…it’s so wide!

    On that note, you are expecting a certain fit from L.L. Bean in which I believe has never/rarely been produced by Bean. Lower your expectations. They aren’t Ralph Lauren. They’re not the company that is going to be on the leading edge of fashion and it’s changing fits for men and women.  L.L. Bean is about function first…and regarding function of the Norwegian sweater, they nailed it. It keeps me warm and it keeps me dry.  Regarding fashion (and fit), they have some improvements to make—and that’s to be expected from a company like L.L. Bean whose target market isn’t physically fit 20-30 years old males (maybe it balloons slightly to accommodate for the spare tire many Americans are carrying around?).  Say what you want about the fit of the new sweater, but go try the original one on first and then try the new one…I’d love to hear which one you like better.


    BBSLM left a comment on 12/11/2009 at 10:02 PM:

    Michael B…if only the link you posted was for a medium. Although im sure it wont be hard for me to find one.


    james left a comment on 12/11/2009 at 8:00 PM:

    you had me until you said 100% “water repellant” wool.  Call me a purist…but let wool be wool.


    Michael B. left a comment on 12/11/2009 at 4:49 PM:

    BBSLM: Would it be terribly crass of me to wiggle my fingers in my ears and yell “neener-neener” and posted this? smile

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330382795618&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

    I started the hunt for one of these as soon as the reviews started coming out on the new ones.  The good news is that the bay seems to offer them up on a regular basis, but this one although “used” sure seems to be almost NOS.

    Michael “Yeah, I’m braggin’” B.


    BBSLM left a comment on 12/11/2009 at 4:07 PM:

    The reissue is an utter failure. LL Bean didnt “nail” anything, unless you consider designing an unwearable sweater “nailing it.” I too thought the one I was sent was a blem sweater, but after checking the reviews on LL Bean’s site, it appears the balloons on the sides are a universal trait. I wouldnt wear this sweater if you paid me to, muchless spend $120 for it. Hopefully they will fix the reissue; otherwise, back to eBay I go, in search of an original. At least the Bean boots havent been ruined.


    Memphis88 left a comment on 12/11/2009 at 11:46 AM:

    Count me as one of the disappointed. I ordered one by phone well before they hit the site and was shocked at how much the sweater ballooned out at the sides. It looked ridiculous. I had heard that the new ones would be slimmer than the old ones so I had Bean send me another one thinking the first was simply a mistake. It wasn’t. If it were a matter of it being a little too large, but the shape being right I could wear it. The strange shape does indeed make it unwearable.


    Michael B. left a comment on 12/11/2009 at 11:14 AM:

    Readers will want to read the reviews of the sweaters fit before ordering. Almost universal complaints that the new 100 percent wool sweater is unacceptably baggy around the waist regardless of fit elsewhere. Apparently there was a reason for the original’s 20 percent rayon content- it enabled the sweater to maintain it’s shape.  If you haven’t yet succumbed to the lust for a new one, pay heed to the percentage of Bean customers who are returning theirs as “unwearable”.  ...sigh… If they’d only gotten it right…


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